Type: Sport, TR, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Erik Wright, Josh Hood, Aaron Formella 09/02/2019
Page Views: 867 total · 15/month
Shared By: Aaron Formella on Sep 4, 2019
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

If you think the route to the right is really a 10a, you should have no problem with this one. 10b?

This route offers fun, dynamic, and gymnastic moves on overhanging granite. It is well protected, approachable for the grade, and seems to be easier if you are tall.

Start on a left facing flake beneath the overhang, then, rather than continuing right along the crack, make a big move up and left onto a rail. Boulder your way up the steep face and stand up on the lip. Climb a short, fine quality, slab (5.7ish) up to a right-facing flake, pass several horizontal grooves, then run it out up the easy slab (5.5ish) to finish at a ledge with a horizontal crack where you can build an anchor.

The area is shaded in the morning before the sun comes around the dome, and in the afternoon the trees again offer shade.

Location Suggest change

On the overhanging wall of Spring Dome's West Face. The route starts on a left facing flake at the bottom of a prominent right leaning crack. Left of the route, "I Am Not A Bear!, I am a Marmot!" 

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts
Optional hand-sized cams for upper sections of climb
Hand-sized cams (#2 BD) for top anchor in horizontal crack (#1 can also work)
If you want to TR or need to clean your anchor after lowering off, you can ascend the SW side of the dome and walk north along an exposed ledge system until you are above the route.

Photos

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