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Routes in The Magic Forest
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Kittens Scratching Your Eyes Out S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Magic Forest S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Miller Time S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Paper Thin S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Puppies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Same Ol' River S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sapnest Monster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shuckbugger S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 39.3904, -106.66998 |
| FA: | T. Katieb, 2008 |
| Page Views: | 681 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | tscupp on Aug 29, 2019 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2022 raptor closure (and older info: 5 Year Raptor Seasonal Closure proposal) - now ended
Details
Update: from Phillip Nyland, NFS: the temporary closure has ended. During recent monitoring, my technician spotted no falcons or young on the cliffs or in immediate nesting area where they were seen earlier this season. She saw an adult flying around the main canyon & heard it calling. The young is now able to fly & the family will likely hang around the vicinity for a while longer but is not dependent on the nest site.
Previously: the peregrine falcons returned in 2022 to nest in the Jellystone area of Lime Creek Canyon. Thus, the White River NF was enacting a temporary closure of the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, June 9 until 8/1/22.
Two peregrine falcons successfully nested here in 2020 during a similar temp. climbing closure. In 2021, falcons didn't nest in this area, & a closure was not necessary.
A pair was attending a nest. During my last monitoring session, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge out of view. The nest is in a location widely visible from access & routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible @ Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but this year the nest location makes the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to human presence at both cliffs.
The temp. closure includes the cliff faces, top of the cliffs, climbing routes, & access routes to the Magic Forest & Endless Wall at Jellystone Park. The top of the cliffs are included in the closure, b/c we have seen the peregrines there. Closure information is posted at the beginning of the access route from Forest Road 400. The closure ends August 1.
Old info: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with Phillip Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date has shown no evidence of raptor nesting in the area. As a result, the NF anticipates no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime Creek & the nearby areas are open.
The White River National Forest proposes to establish a 5 year regulation, known as a “Special Order,” that would restrict human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime Creek Canyon, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each year based on observed nesting activity.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction set forth from June to Aug. 1, 2020 after monitoring showed the nest to be active for the fourth year from 2016-2020, and within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime Creek Canyon are unique and have the specific resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, and rear their young. During this life stage, adults and young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by close human presence.
It is our intent to protect the area surrounding the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information and monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 year restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted annually on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order b>would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to Comment
You may comment on this proposal by replying to Phil Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at (970) 404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or Jennifer Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at (970) 404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by May 24, 2021.
More information regarding the proposal, its rationale, and how to provide your comments is available by contacting the Forest Service.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Please share this invitation to comment with others.
Thank you for your interest in the management of your public lands.
Phil Nyland
Forest Service Wildlife Biologist
White River National Forest,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
Previously: the peregrine falcons returned in 2022 to nest in the Jellystone area of Lime Creek Canyon. Thus, the White River NF was enacting a temporary closure of the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, June 9 until 8/1/22.
Two peregrine falcons successfully nested here in 2020 during a similar temp. climbing closure. In 2021, falcons didn't nest in this area, & a closure was not necessary.
A pair was attending a nest. During my last monitoring session, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge out of view. The nest is in a location widely visible from access & routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible @ Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but this year the nest location makes the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to human presence at both cliffs.
The temp. closure includes the cliff faces, top of the cliffs, climbing routes, & access routes to the Magic Forest & Endless Wall at Jellystone Park. The top of the cliffs are included in the closure, b/c we have seen the peregrines there. Closure information is posted at the beginning of the access route from Forest Road 400. The closure ends August 1.
Old info: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with Phillip Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date has shown no evidence of raptor nesting in the area. As a result, the NF anticipates no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime Creek & the nearby areas are open.
The White River National Forest proposes to establish a 5 year regulation, known as a “Special Order,” that would restrict human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime Creek Canyon, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each year based on observed nesting activity.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction set forth from June to Aug. 1, 2020 after monitoring showed the nest to be active for the fourth year from 2016-2020, and within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime Creek Canyon are unique and have the specific resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, and rear their young. During this life stage, adults and young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by close human presence.
It is our intent to protect the area surrounding the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information and monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 year restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted annually on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order b>would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to Comment
You may comment on this proposal by replying to Phil Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at (970) 404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or Jennifer Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at (970) 404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by May 24, 2021.
More information regarding the proposal, its rationale, and how to provide your comments is available by contacting the Forest Service.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Please share this invitation to comment with others.
Thank you for your interest in the management of your public lands.
Phil Nyland
Forest Service Wildlife Biologist
White River National Forest,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
Access Issue: 2025 Raptor Closure - Endless Wall & Magic Forest - rescinded
Details
8/7/25:Thank you for your support of the closure for nesting peregrine falcons this summer. NF no longer sees falcons. The order ended 8/8/25. - J. Schuller, NFS.
6/18/25: USFS monitored LC for nesting peregrine falcons, & a pair established a nest. The active nest site is in the “Endless Wall & Magic Forest areas. They request not climbing there.
2023: the nesting peregrine falcon pair at Lime CC are in full swing & a temporary area closure surrounding the nest was now in effect until 8/1/23 or rescinded earlier. Info is posted at the site. Climbing is not affected at other areas in Lime CC as a result of this temporary closure, incl. at Endless Wall in the Jellystone & the N end of the canyon. Specific to the Endless Wall, the closure begins about 75' R of Fruit of the Linen extends about 2000' up the canyon to a point about 180' N of the overhead powerline.
In 2022: closure ended. During monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest-dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible @ Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
Older: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas are open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 yr reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each yr based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
Our intent is to protect the area of the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 yr restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More info regarding the proposal, rationale, & how to provide your comments - contact the FS.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Thank you for your interest.
Phil Nyland
FS Wildlife Biologist
White River NF,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
6/18/25: USFS monitored LC for nesting peregrine falcons, & a pair established a nest. The active nest site is in the “Endless Wall & Magic Forest areas. They request not climbing there.
2023: the nesting peregrine falcon pair at Lime CC are in full swing & a temporary area closure surrounding the nest was now in effect until 8/1/23 or rescinded earlier. Info is posted at the site. Climbing is not affected at other areas in Lime CC as a result of this temporary closure, incl. at Endless Wall in the Jellystone & the N end of the canyon. Specific to the Endless Wall, the closure begins about 75' R of Fruit of the Linen extends about 2000' up the canyon to a point about 180' N of the overhead powerline.
In 2022: closure ended. During monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest-dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible @ Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
Older: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas are open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 yr reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each yr based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
Our intent is to protect the area of the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 yr restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More info regarding the proposal, rationale, & how to provide your comments - contact the FS.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Thank you for your interest.
Phil Nyland
FS Wildlife Biologist
White River NF,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
Description
While the final headwall climbs some nice rock, the moss and choss make this quite a compromise and is probably better skipped for most.
Just right of the classic Puppies arete, step off the reinforced stance on some chossy / mossy rock to reach a high first bolt. Continue up and right or try to stay left on better rock until a stance below the headwall. Using a large, hollow block, move left onto the headwall grabbing a sloping crimp rail where a juggy flake has recently broken making this section much harder. Continue up beautiful rock for the final few feet of climbing.
Photos
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