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Early Access
Routes in Chernobyl
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137 Cesium Reindeer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Alpha, Beta, Gamma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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CCCP Design Flaws S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dive In, The Water Is Safe T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Everyone Has Cancer T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Glow in the Dark S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Hold My Graphite S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Nuclear Disaster T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pet Cementary S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reactor #4 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Roof Top Liquidators T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Russian Cover Up T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.2564, -105.08926 |
| FA: | Wolfe, solo |
| Page Views: | 1,115 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Furthermore on Aug 26, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
begin on the left side of the southern arete, and climb the arete on featured rock to a small ledge. Then fire up the crux headwall via chickenheads and underclings to another small ledge. Moderate climbing then leads to a good stance with an anchor, 12 bolts, 5.8-, 95 feet.
Pitch 2: continue past the anchor on easy terrain to a steep short, headwall finish, 3 bolts, 5.7, 40 feet.
It requires two rappels to rappel down the route or you can do a single rope rappel to the west with a single 60m. Tie knots, and watch the ends of the rope.
In my opinion, since the top of pitch 2 has a horrible stance, it's best to lead and combine the first two pitches and then lower to the top of pitch 1. Then have the follower climb both pitches, clean the top of pitch two, and lower back to the top of pitch 1. Once the the anchor is cleaned, then both climbers can rappel from the top of pitch 1 to the base of the route.
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