Type: Trad, 475 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Josh Gross, Mado Gross and Lynn Sanson
Page Views: 237 total · 119/month
Shared By: Lynn S on Aug 17, 2019
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Pitch 1.
Climb Grave Line, 60’, 8 bolts to a stance.

Pitch 2.
Climb easy terrain past one bolt and then into a mellow corner, placing gear as needed. This corner has certainly been climbed before. After about 50 feet, locate a bolt to your right, and begin moving right into an angled, right-facing corner. Once in the corner, climb up past another bolt then up to a couple stacked blocks. Move right once more, placing gear as needed. Climb into some brownish rock with bolts protecting you to the anchor. Two fun sections await, the first .11-, followed by a fun .10+ bit. An easy 20’ more takes you to a two-bolt anchor, 150’, 5.11-, mixed protection.

Pitch 3.
Move left on easy terrain to a bolt, then move down a move and then upward following bolts to a cool flake feature and a bolt protected move into the start of a fun crack section. Follow this fun broken crack all the way to a nice ledge. This is a good, fun, mixed pitch, 120’, 5.10.

Pitch 4.
From the ledge, climb easily past a few bolts to a short gear section and then a bolt below a small roof feature. Step left around the roof, easy, and continue up to another even nicer ledge below the crux pitch, 60’, 5.8, mixed protection.

Pitch 5.
This has the route's crux pitch - climb 5.9 terrain past several bolts. As the wall steepens, the climbing gets on you. Begin trending right past a couple of bolts, and hit a few stout moves, 11+. After clipping the final bolt, scoot right into a low angled corner. It is easy climbing in this section, but it would be probably wise to bring a finger-sized cam to protect this corner. Once you exit the corner, climb another 15’ on low angled rock to a 3 bolt anchor, 120’, 5.11+, bolts and a couple finger-sized pieces.

Descent:
Option 1. Walk up to the summit and down the gully to the left.

Option 2. Scramble down and right to the anchors atop Meltdown, and do a full 70m rope rap as described on that route page. I would avoid rapping Tradding Water as there are many flakes that could snag your rope. Also you would need a second rope for getting down the long pitch.

Location

Start by climbing Grave Line. The new pitches begin above that route.

Protection

Gear from red C3 to a #2 Camalot; doubles in 0.5, 0.75, and 1; 14 draws; and 4 long draws.

Photos