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Erwin's Projekt
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Obere Schlossbergwand (Main)
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Action Perfect - Ulis kleine Rentnerführe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dala S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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DEPRESSION DELUXE - die Toten Hosen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dezentraler Energiepfad S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Ernesto Direkt S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Erwin's Projekt S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fight Graffiti S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Harry Potter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Invading Celts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kleiner König Kallewirsch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Treibhauseffekt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ursus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| GPS: | 49.774, 11.292 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 619 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Pandy Fackler on Jul 27, 2019 |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath |
Description
Technical face climbing on pockets take you to a stance below the bulge. Difficult, bouldery moves on crimps and other not-so-good holds lead to a hard left hand upside-down gaston in a deep pocket, followed by a strenuous barn-door lock off to reach a right hand hueco, which isn't as good as you'd like. One more move gets you to jugs and a clip. From here, hero jug hauling on big huecos and pockets get you to the chains.
About the grade; it is listed as UIAA 8 (French 7a/7a+, YDS 11d/12a) in my 2010 guidebook. The local strong-boys at the crag told me that a crucial hold broke a few years ago making the route quite a bit harder. It seems now that the consensus is UIAA 8+/9- (French 7b or 7b+, YDS 12b or 12c). Take your pick! Regardless, a super fun route!
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