Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 37.2107, -112.955
FA: Bryan Bird and Jared Greer, Summer 2000
Page Views: 862 total · 11/month
Shared By: Stu Hopkins on Jul 21, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Great climbing in an ultra shaded area (until three or so mid-summer). Good variety from a fist roof and hands pitches down to some fingers near the top. Super fun to do during the summer. It should be noted that 2 ropes are required to rappel. We did it with 2 70m ropes and had enough to spare that 2 60m may be fine (the book says 2 x 60m should work). It would be smart to bring some extra webbing as both rap anchors are either off of a tree (lowest) or just two bolts with webbing slung between (upper anchor).

P1. Climb the buttress beginning by pulling a square roof using fist sized jams. Good fists for the first 15 feet and then easy climbing on flakes up the left leaning crack. Belay off of trees.

P2. Move the belay up through the oaks towards the hourglass shaped chimney system. Climb the left side of the system up an awesome overhanging handcrack. Super fun last 20 feet to the belay ledge. Make a belay here or link pitch 2 and three into one long 60m pitch.

P3. Switch to the right side of the hourglass and start up that crack system. Use multiple cracks to get up with a wide variety of pro but mostly in the .75 - 2 range. As you begin to exit the crack system look up and to the left for the chains. They are invisible from below and they seemed to pop out of nowhere when I didn't want to continue up the crack.

Descent: Double rope rappel off of the chains to the top of the buttress. There is currently an anchor built off a tree to get off the buttress in a single rope rap.

Location Suggest change

Come up the cragmont trail and turn right towards the second tunnel window at the junction. Look for the large square buttress (100' tall or so) that is visible from the road about 200 yards from the junction. On this buttress look for a square shaped roof and that is the start of the climb.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles .3-3 and a single 4. Optional triples in .75-2

Photos

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