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Routes in Cragmont

Cocksmasher T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
G-string Divas T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gypsy's Curse, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
H.C.N T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lap Dance T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reggaetone T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remnants of a party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
You and You T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bryan Bird, Joe French, Eric Draper, and Nate Brown
Page Views: 1,274 total, 17/month
Shared By: skeers on Sep 14, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Remnants of a Party Follows a prominent left-facing corner system for four pitches. Start by climbing ta right-facing flake and a straight in crack that gradually shrinks. Anchor for the first pitch are visible fro the ground.

P1- 5.10 weird but good accepts good gear. Crux is a little tricky had to place nuts and move up on suspect gear. offsets would have worked well here. 2 bolt anchor with

P2- 5.9 great pitch. Nice hands the whole way. pitch has BD 1,2,3 and 4 placements. 2 bolt anchor

P3- absolutely amazing if you like off width and squeezes. pull a small roof into the squeeze, move up and place 5 or 6 high, pull a small roof into fists, and move on fist and biceps for friction to the anchor. 2 bolt anchor spread wide w/rap rings (weird)

P4- mixed reviews! i thought it was exciting and adventurous climbing. flared chimney with good gear in back, climb into a stem, move your way up to a roof with good holds, good feet and great placements. pull roof to the anchors. 2 bolt anchor not equalized (we added webbing for equalization.)

See Zion Climbing guide by Bryan Bird for TOPO.

Location

One climb to the right of Gypsy's Curse. East end of Cragmont.

Protection

2 ea ti 4.5" 1 ea 5" nuts, 2 60m ropes. Rap the route./per book description. (I took black diamond 2 ea .3-5, 1 ea #6 (6-optional, but very helpful), and a set of nuts.

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BSU_Zac
 
BSU_Zac  
 
A great climb in an incredible area. Be sure to oogle at Feast of Snakes and company while at the base. G-string divas is just next door and worth doing as well. Oct 19, 2014
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I didn't think the gear is suspect on pitch 1 at all. From the stance before the crux I placed a bomber red alien in front of my face and a bomber red C3 right at the crux. A green c3 would have placed even easier. They were perfect.
- I'd say doubles down to yellow alien and singles below that get it done.
- Nothing smaller than #1 camalot needed after pitch 1
- All the pitches rap with 1 60m rope EXCEPT the 1st pitch! The tails came up about 4 feet short so pay attention and downclimb.
- Awesome really fun climb with sick OW and Chimneys! Oct 17, 2014
Ryan Hill
Oakland, CA
 
Ryan Hill   Oakland, CA
 
Stellar route, had a blast on it this afternoon!

A couple notes:
Easily rappels with one 60m rope, though getting to the anchor on pitch 2 is a little frightening as you have to swing into it, backing up your rappel is a great idea.
Offsets protect the crux move on P1 quite well, thanks to the OP for the suggestion!
For gear I would say that doubles from .3-5" is sufficient, especially if you have a set of offset cams for P1. A #6 is optional, but can be placed. The top of P3 begs for a #3, so think about saving one of those for the top.

I highly recommend this route. Great climbing, shady, and out of the wind. Get on it! May 7, 2014