Type: | Sport, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | I. Golli, M. Suhac |
Page Views: | 571 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | pokryfka on Jun 23, 2019 |
Admins: |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Fun climbing with great views, marked as classic in the guidebook by Boris Cujic.
P1. ~40m, 5b; runouts on easier parts, the crux is a traverse at the end of the pitch with very polished feet and fairly good holds for hands - its well protected for the leader and there is an old piton to secure the follower; if you climb it as one pitch you will have no visual nor verbal communication with your partner; I made an anchor half way through when I spotted an old piton next to a bolt and another bolt just 60cm up;
P2. ~20m, 4a; the anchor is shared with "Johnny" and a bit to the right of the route, it has a rappelling ring;
P3. ~40m, 4b+; fun and exposed for the grade; there is an anchor of "Senza Pieta" at 1/3 of the pitch, later bolts become sparse and at times its challenging to spot them; from the "Senza Pieta" anchor go up along the crack and then a bit to the right until you find a huge titanium bolt next to a tree; if you climb it as one pitch you will have no visual nor verbal communication with your partner;
Descent: Rappel on north (right) side from the titanium bolt at the end of the 3rd pitch or downclimb to another anchor which is just 10m below; rappel again to a small forest, walk down and look for the anchor of "Kalamari union" - it is very well hidden and very exposed, you may want to belay the few airy moves using a tree; once you find it it takes 3 rappels with single 60m rope along "Kalamari union" to get to a beautiful pool with a waterfall - jump in and refresh yourself.
P1. ~40m, 5b; runouts on easier parts, the crux is a traverse at the end of the pitch with very polished feet and fairly good holds for hands - its well protected for the leader and there is an old piton to secure the follower; if you climb it as one pitch you will have no visual nor verbal communication with your partner; I made an anchor half way through when I spotted an old piton next to a bolt and another bolt just 60cm up;
P2. ~20m, 4a; the anchor is shared with "Johnny" and a bit to the right of the route, it has a rappelling ring;
P3. ~40m, 4b+; fun and exposed for the grade; there is an anchor of "Senza Pieta" at 1/3 of the pitch, later bolts become sparse and at times its challenging to spot them; from the "Senza Pieta" anchor go up along the crack and then a bit to the right until you find a huge titanium bolt next to a tree; if you climb it as one pitch you will have no visual nor verbal communication with your partner;
Descent: Rappel on north (right) side from the titanium bolt at the end of the 3rd pitch or downclimb to another anchor which is just 10m below; rappel again to a small forest, walk down and look for the anchor of "Kalamari union" - it is very well hidden and very exposed, you may want to belay the few airy moves using a tree; once you find it it takes 3 rappels with single 60m rope along "Kalamari union" to get to a beautiful pool with a waterfall - jump in and refresh yourself.
Photos
- No Photos -
0 Comments