Zgreseni

Fun climbing with great views, marked as classic in the guidebook by Boris Cujic.

P1. ~40m, 5b; runouts on easier parts, the crux is a traverse at the end of the pitch with very polished feet and fairly good holds for hands - its well protected for the leader and there is an old piton to secure the follower; if you climb it as one pitch you will have no visual nor verbal communication with your partner; I made an anchor half way through when I spotted an old piton next to a bolt and another bolt just 60cm up;

P2. ~20m, 4a; the anchor is shared with "Johnny" and a bit to the right of the route, it has a rappelling ring;

P3. ~40m, 4b+; fun and exposed for the grade; there is an anchor of "Senza Pieta" at 1/3 of the pitch, later bolts become sparse and at times its challenging to spot them; from the "Senza Pieta" anchor go up along the crack and then a bit to the right until you find a huge titanium bolt next to a tree; if you climb it as one pitch you will have no visual nor verbal communication with your partner;

Descent: Rappel on north (right) side from the titanium bolt at the end of the 3rd pitch or downclimb to another anchor which is just 10m below; rappel again to a small forest, walk down and look for the anchor of "Kalamari union" - it is very well hidden and very exposed, you may want to belay the few airy moves using a tree; once you find it it takes 3 rappels with single 60m rope along "Kalamari union" to get to a beautiful pool with a waterfall - jump in and refresh yourself.

Right and a bit up from "Diagonalska". There is a sign pointing to "Diagonalska" after the caffe and before the bridge. "Diagonalska" has a metal triangle with the route name at the beginning of its first pitch, "Zgreseni" has not but you will be able to see the first bolts.

Sparse bolts, bolted anchors