All Locations > Colorado > Ft Collins > Lory SP > Arthur's Rock > Overlook (Arthur's Rock)

Overview Effect

Name: Overview Effect
Rating: 1.8

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in The Overlook (Arthur's Rock)

L › R R › L A › Z

	'Old School Route' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Black Dog S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crystal Pinch S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Giggle Maker, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Green Sky S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Lagunita S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Mossy Moe S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Overpopulation S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Overview Effect T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 105 ft (32 m)
GPS:	40.56634, -105.18381
FA:	who knows? First lead with current hardware by Matt Twyman, May 2019
Page Views:	1,167 total · 13/month
Shared By:	Matt Twyman on May 21, 2019
Admins:	James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

2022: South Face closures from May 15 - July 31.

Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.

Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.

Description

The route starts with casual friction climbing on a moderate angled slab (the sapling is off of course) and follows solid stone up through a very shallow runnel to a comfortable ledge. Fun terrain takes you to another ledge with an overhang and an exciting but casual exit through large features. Be sure to extend the draw on the slab before the ledge as well as the draw in the roof. The line leads out right, and then a few face moves take you to a casual topout passing a recommended gear placement or two (a 0.75 and 1 are ample). This one goes all the way to the summit and a very comfortable belay ledge. Just keep going straight up. It is highly recommended to climb it in multi-pitch fashion, bringing up your second. This avoids drag if toproping, and offers the most fulfilling experience this wall has to offer. Sit back, and enjoy the view.

You’ll want a 70m rope. If you have a 60m, summit together, and either walk east down through the corridor, accessing the chain anchors for Overpopulation where a 60m rope will reach the ground, or walk off the backside (descending an easy Class 4 chimney then walking west and back to Arthur’s Trail or descending through a deep runnel slot after passing the seasonal waterfall and Black Dog, eventually back to the base of the wall).
All the bolts were funded and provided by The NCCC. If you would like to make a donation for future projects, visit the website here: nococlimbing.org/.

Thanks to the work of the NCCC with Lory State Park (LSP), a Fixed Anchor Initiative has been put in place. This initiative allows for the replacement of old anchors and installation of fixed anchors for new routes through an application process.

Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/guidebooks-2/.

Location

It is ~75’ right of the seasonal waterfall and directly in front of a large, uprooted pine tree and below a sappling growing out of the wall about 10’ off the ground.

Protection

8 bolts + 2 chain anchors. Supplemental gear for the final runout stretch to the anchors is encouraged - anything between 0.3 & 1”. A few alpine draws will help reduce drag. A 70m rope is needed for rap, or else see the descent options.