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Cirith

5.11c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2 from 11 votes
FA: L. Gains Germain, A. Miller
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Mordor > Twin Towers Sector
Warning Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls at Diablo DetailsDrop down

Description

Tricky arete start leads to large juggy rail to easily clip second bolt.  steep and sustained movement leads out right through interesting pocket-face-climbing. Crux move gets you to a positive rail at last bolt with a 5.10 mantle move over a gritty face  to the anchors. (Many sport climbers struggle with mantle moves at Diablo).

Location

Left route on Cirith Tower (right of two towers)

Protection

5 bolts

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ALuckyDuck
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] Absolute kitty litter choss above the last bolt. If you manage to pull the lip without breaking everything off, your feet might unexpectedly crumble beneath you as you're clipping the chains and raining baseball sized rocks at your belayer. The anchors should just be where the last bolt is, just my .02...Also, whether you try the arete left of the 2nd bolt or awkward ramp right of the second bolt, prepare for V3/4 moves with an awkward clipping stance in a no fall scenario. Nov 17, 2019
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Sorry Christian you had a bad day up there. Diablo climbing isn't for everyone. Nov 18, 2019
Keith Beckley
Santa Fe, NM
[Hide Comment] I thought this was a great route with a bouldery start and an engaging finish! Dec 9, 2019
Logan Peterson
Santa Fe, NM
 
[Hide Comment] Tough boulder problem at the start. I really liked the finish. Jan 19, 2020
Abram Chavez
Albuquerque
 
[Hide Comment] Agreed, the boulder problem and upper section are quite nice and the clipping stances are all chill with big holds (you can clip the first one off a fairly high horizontal slot/crack before doing the boulder problem, or just bring a stick clip). As with all new routes it still needs a bit of cleaning. Feb 2, 2020
Nicole Copti
Santa Fe
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] People like that top eh? I guess it is all about perspective. I do have to say the movement was a bit enjoyable when I figured out the sequence out right instead of slapping rock out left and having it crumble in my hand. I found it more to be raining pebbles though than baseball size rocks. Jan 10, 2021