All Locations > International > S America > Brazil > Espirito Santo > Pedra Azul

Via Normal

Name: Via Normal
Rating: 3.0

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Pedra Azul

Via Normal S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Sport, 900 ft (273 m), 7 pitches
GPS:	-20.40013, -41.02527
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	695 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Eric Penedo on Dec 18, 2018
Admins:	Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: State Park Area Details

This Area is located inside Pedra Azul State Park. In near past climbing was forbidden for a period by the Park admin.
Local climbing association (ACE) worked together with the responsible govern institutions and park's admin for a long time for reopening the climbing accsess, until 2015 onde route for the main summit was finally allowed. The work is still on the process to reopening of other areas, routes and new route development, but the success of the first "experience" is essential to make it happen.
So if you intend to climb here remember climbing ethics by respecting local rules and leave no trace.
The park charges a fee and there's a limited number of climbers each day. There's no permit via internet in advance, so order is by arrival at the park.

Description

Currently the only climb allowed in the area (2018).
This route reachs the main summit from the southeast slab face, opposite to the main headwall.
Easy climbing very well protected, almost exclusevely on friction/smearing.
Amazing view from the summit (over 1800m) to the main mountains around as far as the eye can see.
The line follows a slab between two water "gullies" (calhas). Routefinding is easy since pros are close, just follow the bolts, except pitch 5 wich is a walk between vegetation to the next bolted anchors.
Descend by rappel to every belay station with two 60m ropes.

Topo: http://www.ace-es.org.br/scripts/croqui.asp?via=353

Location

This route is located inside Pedra Azul State Park.
Inside the park, take the traik to the natural pools.
Before reachig the pools, take a trail up right. Follow the trail around the base of Pedra Azul.
There will be some slab crosses, careful if wet! Some hand rails indicate the way.
In a point you will go up an easy slab beside vegetation and reach a plateau. Look for the first bolt.
1 1/2 hour hike.