Elevation: 521 ft
GPS: -20.311, -40.339 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,971 total · 367/month
Shared By: Eric Penedo on Dec 5, 2018 with improvements by Matt Carmody
Admins: Tony Yeary, Matt Looby

Description

Espirito Santo state is located in the southeast region of Brazil, north from Rio, east from Minas and south from Bahia.

The rock is almost exclusively granite with sharp crystals, and the predominant style is technical climbing in slabs or vertical terrain (read friction, crystals and small holds). Wide cracks (most chimneys) are common, and hand and finger cracks are hard to find.

There are all types of climbing (boulders, sport routes, trad routes, multipitch and bigwalls), but climbing here is known for its long multipitch climbs in big rock faces, some of them (usually the old classics) adventurous climbs (run out, poor gear, natural protection).

Greater Vitória (capital) is an urban climbing area and offers bouldering sectors, sport climbing sectors and dozens of multipitch routes with easy access. There are also two indoor climbing walls, one at the local climbers association (ACE) and one climbing gym (Bouldervix). Most of other areas are in the country side at an average distance from 1 to 3 hour drive from Vitória.

The weather is tropical standard. Summer is hot and rainy. Winter is prime season, dry and cooler. Spring and fall can vary between both.

More info can be found in the state climbing guidebook ESCALADA CAPIXABA (www.escaladacapixaba.com.br), including the history and all routes beta from all types (from boulders to big walls).

On the web there are some topo and beta at the local climbers association (www.ace-es.org.br). Another source is a local climber's blog (naokiarima.com.br) with many topos and betas of almost all main local climbs.

Getting There

There are no international flights direct to the capital Vitória. There are daily flights from São Paulo/SP, Campinas/SP, Rio de Janeiro/RJ, Belo Horizonte/MG and Brasilia/DF.
By car, there are two main roads to acess from the neighbour states. BR-101 cuts the state from Bahia (north) to Rio de Janeiro (south) close to the shore. This road is now private and tolls are charged. BR-262 conects Vitória to the southwest of the state to Minas Gerais. This road is public and no tolls are charged.

22 Total Climbs

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