Type: Sport, 3500 ft (1061 m), 19 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 613 total · 19/month
Shared By: Eric Penedo on Dec 13, 2018
Admins: Tony Yeary, Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby

You & This Route


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Description

Classic and accesible long route experience!
The route follows a series of "small gullys" (canaletas) and face climb on crystals to the summit of the southwest face.
The route shares the same start as Exmurgator, witch goes into the big gully/chimney all the way.
Slower parties climb in a 2 day push, with a bivy in P12. Faster parties can do a single day push.
Amazing view from the top to beautiful huge neighbor peaks like Pedra Baiana, Pedra da Lavra, and many others as far as your eye can see.

Start below the big gully/chimney to a ledge with a tree, and go right face climbing before the chimney lookig for the first bolts. The fisrt anchor (P1) is inside the gully (canaleta), wich the route will follow. Follow this obvious line for three more pithes (to P4), and after a stuck block go right inside one more pitch (P5). Then face climb two pitches to a good ledge (P7). The next two pitches go inside another gully (canaleta) (P9). Continue up and exit right before a giant bromelia (P10). Face climb up two pitches to reach a big plateau (P12) where you can biouvac in the woods if necessary. Belay from a tree.
Face climb the last seven pitches following the bolts to the summit. Well protected crux at P16. The last two pitches are easy but ronout. Routefinding can be hard since the bolts are well spaced. 
Descent: Rapel the 19 pitches from every belay station with two 70m ropes.
PS: There are no rings in the anchors, so the rope gets pretty twisted, slowing the rappels...

Location

From São José do Divino by car, get a dirt road north, an then right at a sign for Pedra Riscada.
Follow the dirtroad in direction to the face and always stay left in the 2 bifurcations.
Ask for permission in a house at the second bifurcation, as the approach is located in private land. The approach is a bit ahead. Park close to a cattle shed.
From here hike up the pasture and inside the woods in direction to the base of the main chimney. Bivy at the base. No water.

Protection

bolts

Photos

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