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Spacious Enterprise
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2 from 2
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Routes in Main Wall
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Blue ox S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Captain Cook T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Desert storm S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Log jam T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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South Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spacious Enterprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sunken Treasure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sunset Streaks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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War on terror S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Compare, Tom Birtley |
| Page Views: | 1,110 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | J Sundstrom on Dec 3, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Nesting Advisory
Details
Go to Alliedclimbers.org for more information on the seasonal nesting advisory for the west side of Corte Madera
Description
Should probably be renamed "Dubious Enterprise" until the bolts are replaced. Either way, it was a fun route especially if unprotected mantles are your game. The guidebook was vague enough that it made it for a full value adventure. I'll describe it as we did it with suggestions for future parties.
The original rating doesn't have an R but I would consider it as such since a fall during the runout of the second pitch would be really bad, especially given the questionable nature of the bolts. With newer bolts you'd be unhappy but alive.
P1. Start up the black dike placing wide pro when it's available. When the crack peters out, ascend the face through three bolts (one 1/4" buttonhead, two homemade sheet metal bolts from the 70's). Hit a small ledge with an anchor of two ok bolts, one rusty 1/4" and one homemade hangar. At this point it's wise to consider retreating if you don't feel confident.
P2. Head up to a small ledge directly above the belay and clip another homemade bolt. Traverse hard right along the ledge clipping another ancient bolt and head up/right through unprotected face moves to the first pro at the bottom of a large block (right of the obvious left facing corner) about 30ft out from the last sheet metal hanger. Probably the most heady part of the route. Directly above this is a good ledge. Guidebook says one bolt, we found two.
P3 - Orig. Keep traversing right up easy but mostly unprotectable ground to join up with the South Buttress below a chimney. Go further right than you think (our mistake).
P3 - Choose your own adventure. We went directly up the easy but mostly unprotected face to the large dirt covered ledge. From here, we went right along the ledge and met up with the South Buttress just below the big roof. There's a bolt line further right that is probably in the 5.9 range (unknown route, new bolts).
P4. Scrambly pitch to the top.
The original rating doesn't have an R but I would consider it as such since a fall during the runout of the second pitch would be really bad, especially given the questionable nature of the bolts. With newer bolts you'd be unhappy but alive.
P1. Start up the black dike placing wide pro when it's available. When the crack peters out, ascend the face through three bolts (one 1/4" buttonhead, two homemade sheet metal bolts from the 70's). Hit a small ledge with an anchor of two ok bolts, one rusty 1/4" and one homemade hangar. At this point it's wise to consider retreating if you don't feel confident.
P2. Head up to a small ledge directly above the belay and clip another homemade bolt. Traverse hard right along the ledge clipping another ancient bolt and head up/right through unprotected face moves to the first pro at the bottom of a large block (right of the obvious left facing corner) about 30ft out from the last sheet metal hanger. Probably the most heady part of the route. Directly above this is a good ledge. Guidebook says one bolt, we found two.
P3 - Orig. Keep traversing right up easy but mostly unprotectable ground to join up with the South Buttress below a chimney. Go further right than you think (our mistake).
P3 - Choose your own adventure. We went directly up the easy but mostly unprotected face to the large dirt covered ledge. From here, we went right along the ledge and met up with the South Buttress just below the big roof. There's a bolt line further right that is probably in the 5.9 range (unknown route, new bolts).
P4. Scrambly pitch to the top.
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