Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall

Captain Cook T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
South Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunken Treasure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sunset Streaks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jeff Brown & Keli Balo
Page Views: 10,682 total, 153/month
Shared By: Daniel Wade on Feb 27, 2012 with updates
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


49 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Nesting Advisory Details
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Very well bolted climb and would be safe for emerging leader. Route rating is based on hardest single move.

P 1 - 100 foot 5.8
P 2 - 100 foot 5.9
P 3 - 90 foot 5.10
P 4 - 60 feet (or so) 5.10
P 5 - 100 foot 5.10

There is a variation for the P4 which moves left and crosses over Crap Duster via old pins and then climbs a steep arete to the summit. 5.9+ or 5.10

Location

Start in the gulley to the right of Crap Duster (the wide crack where the falcons nest) and to the left of Scrotum. If rappelling from the summit, anchors take you right down the dike. From the base of the cliff, the white dike is the most obvious natural line on the face to the left of the South Buttress.

Protection

All you need is 14 draws and a 60 meter rope. 5 rappels off chains at each station will get you to the base. Bring a few long draws to prevent rope drag on 1st pitch.
Emily Ammon  
 
I did NOT find pitch 1 to be a 5.7 or 5.8... perhaps it had to do with height, fatigue from the hike in, or just lack of experience on granite, but... both partner and I were semi-appalled at the low ratings on the first and second pitches.

Then again, we hiked up for about 2 hours with the 25lb packs in the middle of a summer day. Could've used a couple more gallons of water and probably more food too. Took about 45 minutes or more to find the bolts. Note that they are a ways down some trails and past the summit. Should be a few cairns to mark them.

Otherwise cool climb, though. My first big(ger) multipitch experience. Aug 22, 2017
pcass
 
pcass  
 
this year the closure begins on march 1st. here is a link for more information fs.usda.gov/detail/clevelan… Feb 22, 2017
Does anyone know the exact dates the wall is closed due to the nesting falcons? Jan 26, 2017
Safty Third
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
Safty Third   San Diego, CA
  5.10a
Linked 1-2, 3-4, and 5 to the summit. IMO pitches 1-2 aren't worth the extra rappels.

Highly recommend rapping in. We saw a party struggggling and bushwhacking up to the cliff from the bottom approach.

I agree that this whole climb can go at 5.9 if you stray right of the bolt line for the majority of the climb. However, I noticed that was the path of least resistance, but also that the bolt line stayed pretty true to the dike. If you stick with the line direct it goes 5.10 for 3-4. I'm not sure about that boulder problem on 5, maybe 9+ or 10a.

pitches 3-5 were really enjoyable, and pitches 1-2 just seemed contrived to access the feature from the bottom.

Pitch 3 ledge is pretty chossy, so be really aware if parties are rapping in or belaying above.

Rap line is easy to find, there is a climbers trail that heads straight down to the chains from just behind the summit block. 60m should work for linking 3-5, but I'm not sure if 60m would work for linking 1-2.

Pitches 3-5 are money. Dec 11, 2016
Eric M Parks
Campo, CA
  5.8+
Eric M Parks   Campo, CA
  5.8+
Cleaned the lose rock off of the ramp on P2 and away from the anchors on top of P3. Every where else was clean. Oct 8, 2016
Obecian
  5.10a
Obecian  
  5.10a
If rapping in from the top walk past the summit reg by about 30 yards then head for the cliff. We spent a solid 30 minutes wandering around looking for the start. Jan 26, 2016
Arin Earl  
 
I didn't find anything in the 5.10a range. No harder than 5.9. Fun route and not even 8 miles away from the in-laws! Jul 2, 2015
PSA - a fair amount of loose debris and rock exists on nearly every belay ledge, and this casual sport climb should be treated with a bit of alpine respect. A very inconsiderate local party who was rappelling in from above trundled a large block from 500' up, not knowing there were climbers directly below. It exploded into grapefruit-sized blocks above our heads and all around us, nearly bringing a tragic end to our day of fun in the sun. One particular member of this party was adamant that his actions were justified for the sake of "safety", without even saying so much as "I'm sorry." I'm all for cleaning routes, but ALWAYS assume there is another party below, especially on A PERFECT SUNDAY AFTERNOON IN PEAK SEASON. Wait until after dark on a weekday to knock loose stuff off, AFTER FIRST CHECKING THE BASE OF THE CLIFF FOR OTHERS. And YELL "ROCK" a thousand goddamn times before you do something so stupid. Rant over. Dec 8, 2014
Rich Welker
Riverside, CA
  5.9+
Rich Welker   Riverside, CA
  5.9+
Bou;dery Move at the exit is awesome and not too hard. The last pitches are terrific! I'd say the route is no harder than solid 5.9 but super fun! Feb 20, 2014
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
We found it made sense to break up the pitch descriptions the same way the rappels are set up (almost any two can be linked):
1) 5.7 100ft
2) 5.8 80ft
3) 5.9 80ft
4) 5.10a 80ft
5) 5.9 80ft

Portions of the first pitch and the entire second pitch were mediocre at best, but once you start following the dike, the climbing was very entertaining. Watch out for the 1/4" relic that protects a funky move on one of the last two pitches! The Beta photo showing the rocks above the top anchors was dead-on and invaluable for finding the route from the summit. Jan 13, 2014
jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
 
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
 
Super-clean, super-fun climb. The crazy nature of the incut features (like someone used a tile saw to cut handholds/steps) had me literally laughing at times, with a wide grin plastered on my face. The bouldery moves on the last pitch right below the top were my favorite. As far as the "deck potential" re: the first moves off the 2nd and 3rd belays: yeah, it's there, but you're really not all that high up. Not too much to sweat about IMO. We also linked Ps 1/2 and 3/4 w/60m rope. Nov 3, 2013
Michael Douglas
Yucaipa, CA
  5.9+
Michael Douglas   Yucaipa, CA
  5.9+
Great Route! 5 belay/rappel stations. When rappelling, do NOT double rope rappel to make rappelling faster; the rope will get stuck. Each belay/rap station is very comfortable and the climb can be done in three pitches. Bring at least 15 draws if you are planning to link pitches. We did it in 3. The description above is missing ~80ft of the climb.

P1 - 5.7 overprotected so you can skip bolts. Extend as many as you can!! (~180ft)
P2 - 5.8 (~90ft) / 5.9+ (~95ft)
P3 - 5.9 (~90ft)


@IMG-108008957> Feb 19, 2013
It's called "Sunset Streaks". 5.10a. FA: Jeff Brown & Keli Balo. Mar 5, 2012