Type: Sport, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jeff Brown & Keli Balo
Page Views: 17,101 total · 168/month
Shared By: Daniel Wade on Feb 27, 2012 with improvements by keli
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Nesting Advisory Details

Description

Very well bolted climb and would be safe for emerging leader. Route rating is based on hardest single move.

P 1 - 100 foot 5.8
P 2 - 100 foot 5.9
P 3 - 90 foot 5.10
P 4 - 60 feet (or so) 5.10
P 5 - 100 foot 5.10

There is a variation for the P4 which moves left and crosses over Crap Duster via old pins and then climbs a steep arete to the summit. 5.9+ or 5.10

Location

Start in the gulley to the right of Crap Duster (the wide crack where the falcons nest) and to the left of Scrotum. If rappelling from the summit, anchors take you right down the dike. From the base of the cliff, the white dike is the most obvious natural line on the face to the left of the South Buttress.

Protection

All you need is 14 draws and a 60 meter rope. 5 rappels off chains at each station will get you to the base. Bring a few long draws to prevent rope drag on 1st pitch.

Photos