Elevation: 4,383 ft
GPS: 32.756, -116.591 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 92,234 total · 573/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Mar 27, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

Description

A fine south-facing multi-pitch crag in San Diego county. Corte Madera has a history of both traditional and sport routes. The traditional routes will offer adventure with some en-route bushwhacking. The newer sport routes climb the clean faces of this impressive cliff. The climbs are most easily approached by hiking to the top of the cliff and rappelling to the base.

Getting There

From San Diego, head out East on I-8. Exit Buckman Springs and head South of the freeway. Right on Corral Canyon road (Morena Stokes Rd on Google). Park 4.9 miles up the road and hike in on a trail to your right (1.5-2 hours). If you have 4WD then continue up the road. Head right onto a dirt road at the first intersection and follow this to within a 1/2 hour of the top of the cliff. I'll have to verify all of this next time I head out there, please check a map.

** Google maps will suggest what looks like a faster route by getting off I-8 at Exit 45 towards Pine Valley but don't be fooled. You'll encounter a closed gate not long after passing under the freeway on Corte Madera Road. Be sure to follow the directions above.

Getting to lower routes, thanks to hard work by some fellow climbers:
The trail leading to the video dome base has been re-opened after many years of neglect as of Dec 26th 2017 It is now possible to approach video dome area and the solar slabs area as well as the main wall, without multiple rappels. The trail begins just past the saddle boulders and heads south towards a large Boulder then follow cairns down the hill traversing a few hundred feet below the El Niño formation. Enjoy the trail everyone.

Access

Please note that there is a voluntary seasonal closure of anything West (Climbers' Left) of the center of the main wall due to nesting raptors. Feb 1 - June 30.

Route Guides

The latest (2006) Kennedy climbing guide is a vast improvement from the older guide for this area. It includes many of the newer sport routes. Currently this is the only printed guide (that I know of) for this area.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Corte Madera

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 4
Cakewalk
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Swoosh
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Threesome
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Wish You Were Here
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 19
South Buttress
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Im Panadilla
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Candid Chimera
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Mud Slide
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 105
Sunset Streaks
Sport 5 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 8
Close to the Edge
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Pay Per View
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Technicolor
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
El Nino
Sport, TR 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
One Step Beyond
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Puerto Rican Gore-Tex
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cakewalk El Nino Wall
 4
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Swoosh El Nino Wall
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Threesome Beginner's Bluff
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Wish You Were Here El Nino Wall
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
South Buttress Main Wall
 19
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Im Panadilla El Nino Wall
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Candid Chimera Solar Slabs
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mud Slide El Nino Wall
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sunset Streaks Main Wall
 105
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 5 pitches
Close to the Edge El Nino Wall
 8
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Pay Per View Video Dome
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Technicolor Video Dome
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
El Nino El Nino Wall
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, TR 2 pitches
One Step Beyond El Nino Wall
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Puerto Rican Gore-Tex El Nino Wall
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Corte Madera »

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