Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in k. Eldorado Wall aka Rad Dudes Area
|
"V" The Final Battle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3 |
|
Colorado T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
|
|
Corner Cap T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Eldorado T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Last Call T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
|
|
Old Smoothie T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Quivering Hips T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Rad Dudes from Hell TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Spanning the Gap T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
That Was Zen, This is Tao T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Nicholas Clifford 1940's |
| Page Views: | 2,014 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Northeast Mountain Guiding on Oct 31, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | SMarsh |
Description
This route has alot of bad rock on it. Not for a novice! This is particularly true on the middle of the route where the often black rock is hollow sounding and will not hold a real fall. Consider it very dangerous overall. Work hard to find solid rock placements, which are sometimes few and far between.
Pitch 1 (5.6+): Climb the corner that is just before the tree at the base, passing the ceiling on it's right. Your initial goal is to stand on top of that ceiling. Turning to pass the ceiling is a crux move.....look for a hand jam in this move to help you. At crux, there is a large loose rock on your right...be careful not to grab. The crux move might be much higher than 5.6. After passing the roof, climb up to the easy access ledge, which has many thorns, and belay.
LINK Pitch 2 and 3 together: Pass the small roof that is just above the belay station by directly going up through the roof or by stepping 5ft to the right and accessing the easier arete and face. This small roof is 10-15ft above the belay station.
Climb up to the corner directly above 2nd roof and follow it until huge overhangs force you hard left and out to the obvious arete to your left that turns 90 degrees and places you on a new face. This is easy climbing in this section (5.4). The rock in this corner and as you escape the roof at the very top of the climb (according to the old description pitch 2) is often bad, and no good belay can now be created at the 90 deg turn from the one face to the other. Once you make this 90deg turn, you'll be out from underneath the large roof that was above you (for the old description of pitch 2) and find a new corner to climb with no roof above you. From above 2nd small roof to 90 deg turn is 85ft.
Continue up now in the new obvious corner. Pass the 2 trees very near the top (found in my other pic) because they have become suspect raps to the more solid rock at the top out to make an anchor. It would be better to top out and walk your way back over to the triumvirate face and rap down off of THE RIB route. The 2nd corner section is about 80ft long.
3 Comments