Sunshine
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
| Type: | Sport, 680 ft (206 m), 7 pitches |
| GPS: | -41.19176, -71.38907 |
| FA: | Dylan H., Paolo B., Oran F. May-October 2018 |
| Page Views: | 1,384 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Dylan Harris on Oct 11, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
A little bit more of an adventurous bolted route compared to the others in Ventana Sur. Definitely has the most loose chossy rock of all the routes. The cruxes are down low in P1 and then starting P2. Cruxes are delicate friction moves but well protected. The majority of the route is 5.4 to 5.8 climbing.
P3 climb the dihedral and belay from the ledge near a dead tree. 10m to the right on this ledge is the final anchor for the long 6b route in the Sport sector. This other route is a good point to rappel from if you're going to avoid climbing the upper chossier pitches. It's more direct and quicker to the ground.
P4 has two bolts, then a loose scree walk/scramble passing a boulder on the right to the anchor. Run-out but very easy.
P5 has two bolts then follow the easiest rightward ramp/gully upward looking for the bolts around the corner up left. Run-out but easy. P5 is about 35m long but if you needed to rappel it would be a direct shot down 28m to the previous anchor.
P6 has some loose rock, be careful.
P7 also has some loose rocks, tops out at an anchor, from there walk off towards the top on easy terrain.
Location
Hike up the approach gully to the Sport sector of Ventana Sur. The route is located just left of those routes about 50m and downhill a bit at what is roughly the lowest point of rock. Scramble up a short 3rd class trough to access the start. Look for a dark colored diehedral with bolts.
Protection
Bolts. Bring 10 alpine and/or quick draws. Don't climb this route if there are people already climbing below in the Sport Sector. Don't link pitches, there is a lot of rope drag. One 60m rope is sufficient to climb and rappel if necessary. The easiest and safest way off is to walk down the backside using the Lo Spirito de Montani walk off ledges. Look for the rock cairns.



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