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South End ("Horse's Nose")
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 6
votes
Routes in Horsehead Arch
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North End ("Horse's Mane") T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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South End ("Horse's Nose") T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,228 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Steph Abegg on Sep 3, 2018 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
Pitch 1: ~5.9+, 100'. Jam up the steep splitter in the inside of the arch and then slab up the cracks to the base of the arch. The blocks are a bit worrisome but seem pretty solid.
Pitch 2: ~5.6, 50'. Make an airy bouldery move around left onto the top of the arch, then crawl along to the base of the summit block. There are a few places for medium-sized cams.
Top: There is a pretty good flake just below the summit block to set a belay anchor.
Descent: For this climb, the descent is just as fun as the ascent. Do a counterbalance rappel with your partner from just below the south side of the final summit block. Double ropes needed (double 50's would reach).
Disclaimer: The internet has very little information on Horsehead Arch other than a few vague accounts of it being climbed in some way and at some doable grade. I cannot find any route descriptions for the arch published in any guidebooks. Since climbers like route names and ratings, I have taken the liberty of creating route names and assigning approximate grades to the routes my partner and I did up either side of the arch. Please consider the ratings to be +/- a grade of accuracy and feel welcome to post comments about whether or not you felt the pitches were easier/harder than my assignments. Thanks!
Pitch 2: ~5.6, 50'. Make an airy bouldery move around left onto the top of the arch, then crawl along to the base of the summit block. There are a few places for medium-sized cams.
Top: There is a pretty good flake just below the summit block to set a belay anchor.
Descent: For this climb, the descent is just as fun as the ascent. Do a counterbalance rappel with your partner from just below the south side of the final summit block. Double ropes needed (double 50's would reach).
Disclaimer: The internet has very little information on Horsehead Arch other than a few vague accounts of it being climbed in some way and at some doable grade. I cannot find any route descriptions for the arch published in any guidebooks. Since climbers like route names and ratings, I have taken the liberty of creating route names and assigning approximate grades to the routes my partner and I did up either side of the arch. Please consider the ratings to be +/- a grade of accuracy and feel welcome to post comments about whether or not you felt the pitches were easier/harder than my assignments. Thanks!
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