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North End ("Horse's Mane")
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Avg: 3.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Horsehead Arch
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North End ("Horse's Mane") T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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South End ("Horse's Nose") T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,904 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Steph Abegg on Sep 3, 2018 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Description
Pitch 1: ~5.7, 100'. Climb a corner crack system up to the crest.
Pitch 2: ~5.7 R, 200'. Walk/crawl/smear/whimper your way along the narrow ridge to the top. There is pretty decent gear (from green alien to #4) until the final 20 feet, which is runout lichen-covered slab, with just enough quartz crystals for the feet to keep the climbing at 5.7. A heady pitch.
Top: Sling part of the ridge for an anchor. It's best to keep the sling weighted.
Descent: For this climb, the descent is just as fun as the ascent (actually it might be even more fun, since it's not as scary). Do a counterbalance rappel with your partner from the apex of the arch just north of the summit block. Double ropes needed (double 50's would reach).
Disclaimer: The internet has very little information on Horsehead Arch other than a few vague accounts of it being climbed in some way and at some doable grade. I cannot find any route descriptions for the arch published in any guidebooks. Since climbers like route names and ratings, I have taken the liberty of creating route names and assigning approximate grades to the routes my partner and I did up either side of the arch. Please consider the ratings to be +/- a grade of accuracy and feel welcome to post comments about whether or not you felt the pitches were easier/harder than my assignments. Thanks!
Pitch 2: ~5.7 R, 200'. Walk/crawl/smear/whimper your way along the narrow ridge to the top. There is pretty decent gear (from green alien to #4) until the final 20 feet, which is runout lichen-covered slab, with just enough quartz crystals for the feet to keep the climbing at 5.7. A heady pitch.
Top: Sling part of the ridge for an anchor. It's best to keep the sling weighted.
Descent: For this climb, the descent is just as fun as the ascent (actually it might be even more fun, since it's not as scary). Do a counterbalance rappel with your partner from the apex of the arch just north of the summit block. Double ropes needed (double 50's would reach).
Disclaimer: The internet has very little information on Horsehead Arch other than a few vague accounts of it being climbed in some way and at some doable grade. I cannot find any route descriptions for the arch published in any guidebooks. Since climbers like route names and ratings, I have taken the liberty of creating route names and assigning approximate grades to the routes my partner and I did up either side of the arch. Please consider the ratings to be +/- a grade of accuracy and feel welcome to post comments about whether or not you felt the pitches were easier/harder than my assignments. Thanks!
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