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Routes in The Emerald Crest Jewel of Tzillastan
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Bit Bender T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bush Beater S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crest Jewel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Forensic Closure S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Golden Carabiner Award S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Larkspur Widow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.25718, -105.08989 |
| FA: | Wolfe, LaBree |
| Page Views: | 696 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Furthermore on Aug 30, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
This climb reminds me of the Voo's Captain Nemo. Although this roof is shorter, it's much harder. Also, don't blow a bad RP while you're drilling or you'll bend bits.
Pitch 1, 5.11d. Start up an easy flake leading to a short lieback ending in a mantel. The crux begins after the mantel. Climb up a flared crack (poor gear), clip the bolt, and traverse right out of the roof (crux). The traverse has terrible feet, tricky sequences, gear that is tenuous to place, and hands that are less than ideal. After the burly traverse, continue up through a crystal pocketed crack to a small ledge before a widening crack. Belay here.
Pitch 2, 5.7. Fire up the widening crack (#4) to a ledge. This offwidth section can be made easier by using good face holds. From the ledge, climb up another wide crack where some offwidth technique is required. Belay off gear, and then rappel via Emerald Isle's anchors.
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