Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 598 total · 9/month
Shared By: Eric Leclerc on Aug 12, 2018
Admins: Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere

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Description Suggest change

WARNING
I would recommend to avoid this route until a lot of cleaning is done.
I climbed it on August 12, 2018 and here is a description of what I experienced:
-there is a big hold just above the first bolt that could come down at any time and fall on the belayer. I paid attention not to put any weight on it.
-use a sling on bolt #3 to reduce rope drag
-besides that one big hold, the rock seems solid from the beginning until the forth bolt.
-it's hard to figure out which way to go from bolt #4 to bolt #5. You can either go above the bulge(hyper technical beta on dirty rock) through a right traverse where you will encounter many loose holds or you can traverse right below the bulge but will end up in a gully of crumbly chunks of rock. I went above and made it to the fifth draw.
-climbing from bolt # 5 to bolt #7 is easy but be careful with the fragile rock all over the place.
-you will then face a road block at bolt # 8. From bolt #8, the rock is just super dirty and everything is covered with lichen. I looked for a long time trying to figure a way to the top but didn't find the answer.
-I am not even sure this route has ever been finished.
I lowered from a quickdraw left by somebody else at the 8th bolt. I backed it up with a carabiner on the 7th bolt. Somebody else left a bail biner on the 8th bolt.

I gave a grade of 5.10d up to the 8th bolt considering the rock being cleaner. It felt more like 5.11b with all the moss, lichen and crumbly rock.

If anybody has info on this route on how it should be climbed safely, how it should be toped out if possible, the grade, the name of the first ascensionist if it has been sent...

Location Suggest change

Last route of the whole amphitheater.

Protection Suggest change

8 bolts

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