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Routes in The Mordwand

First Degree S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Jeff Skoloda
Page Views: 50 total · 50/month
Shared By: Edward Medina on Aug 6, 2018
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climb ascends the obvious weakness between the large roof features.

Pitch 1. Find the obvious line of bolts beginning from a small tree ledge (5.8).
Pitch 2. Tenuous and technical slab climbing, the cux is just below the last protection bolt. Belay at a small stance beneath the impressive orange overhang (5.9+).
Pitch 3. Step left from the belay into a blocky corner. Continue up the corner for 20 feet or so until you are above the orange overhang. Just past the lip of the overhang, traverse rightward on just enough footholds for several more bolts.
Pitch 4. Continue up on ledgy (licheny) terrain to a summit tree anchor with cordelette and rap rings.

Descent: rap the route or continue up and right past the summit belay tree to a game trail that descends the drainage to the (climber's) right of the Mordwand. Switchback across slabs until you can make your way back to the start.

Location

A black streak marks the upper part of this route. On the right side of the wall, this route begins atop a small dirt ledge held in place by a large pine. Follow the line of bolts.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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