John’s Jump

Most of this route is 5.4, except the dyno, which is harder to put a grade on. The route climbs up the gully/chimney between the main Fan and the chunk on the north side to the first set of anchors (on the right). There is no pro but the climbing is especially easy and secure. Now leap off the end of the diving board formation to a large jug on the other section of The Fan. Make sure your nervous belayer pays out enough rope. Then scramble 20 feet to the second anchors on the left side of the ridge.

Full 40 meter rappel to the original main gully directly below, do not rap the route. A single 70 meter rope will not reach the ground.

Historical Note: Originally, this route only had 1 quarter inch bolt where the first set of anchors are. Climbers would belay their second off of that, and then after the jump, belay their second from sitting in the notch above the current second anchors, then have to reverse the jump to get back to the bolt to rappel. Spicy stuff!

Park in Needles Eye parking lot. Walk towards the tunnel, turning right just past The Hitching Post. Head through the slot in front of you, then down the rock slab, passing a small living tree on your left, arriving at a large dead log on the ground to your right. Head down the gully the log is in until arriving at the base of the small gully on the right heading up between the two sections of the fan. Start climbing here.

2 sets of anchors