Avg: 2.9 from 36 votes
|Type:||Sport, 580 ft (176 m), 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Sam Boyce, Kyle Willis 2017|
|Page Views:||7,416 total · 192/month|
|Shared By:||Sam Boyce on Jul 25, 2018 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
I believe this project started one desperate rainy day March 2017. Too wet to do ANYTHING, but the stoke was high. Kyle touted "I want to do something stupid." I had it in the back of my mind that this wall existed, but never had a reason to explore. We went out armed for bear, full double rack, aid kit and a hammer drill. We were going to siege our way up the wall in the rain. A couple hours later and out of rivets the first pitch was done... Over the course of the summer we would go out and chip away at a pitch, limited by the battery life of the drill (hand drilling in this rock was crazy, way more effort than granite it seemed). Most of the rack was left on the ground after pitch 2. I daisy whipped on a #2 and had it pull, tomahawking backwards through the moss for 40 ft. With full aid kit and the drill in hand it was an entertaining fall. We eventually made it up the wall 5.9 A2+ R. (Side note: if some of the bolting seems weird, many bolts were placed on aid lead through a blanket of gravel and moss so...) So then commenced the absurd task of cleaning this wall. Hundreds of hours went into cleaning it to the state that its in. We had caution tape up for quite a while and gated off nevermind on days we were planning to release big stuff. Most of the climbing is surprisingly fun, some being legitimately wild. Be prepared for some post cleaning dirt and the potential for holds to pull. Overall the route cleaned up fairly well, but until this thing sees a lot of ascents rockfall may still be commonplace. Bring a hardhat!
P1 (5.8/9, 120ft, 13 bolts) - Climb up the left facing corner to the massive roof, traverse left past the roof then up the face to a sloping ledge with chains.
P2 (5.10b, 110ft, 14 bolts) - Pull on the chain to clip the bolt for pro, then step up and right onto the dirt to make a reachy but not hard move (5.7-10a depending on height) to gain the groove. Then, climb a runout slab up to a broken face. Climb easy moves to a big ledge with rap chains, step right stem off tree, then steep moves up (crux) then lead you left past some more broken rock. Belay at a stance, 2 bolts w/no chain. You can mostly keep the rope above your head through the crux and back clean draws to help rope drag. You can split this pitch in half for a tight belay through the crux.
P3 (5.10b, 100ft, 13 bolts) - The money pitch. Traverse right from the belay to some yellow rock. Skip the 4th bolt staying low on easy terrain for a few feet until directly under the fifth bolt. Continue to traverse far right being deliberate with extensions until you mantle to a sloping ledge, then do some wild moves to initiate a traverse back left to a big ledge with a belay.
P4 (5.8/9, 60ft, 6 bolts) - Climb straight up the face to a ledge with a tree, 3 bolt anchor (1 damaged, 1 wire hanger, 1 good).
P5 (5.9+, 130ft, 12 bolts) - Climb up the easy face to a slab with an (easy) runout to a ledge. Optional belay here to do 4,5,6 as 2 pitches. Pull some steep moves off the ledge and traverse a massive dike right to a huge ledge with an anchor. (Do not rap here, else you want to adventure through choss land!)
P6 (5.9, 60ft, 5 bolts) - Steep moves off the belay, then climb up and left to the top.
Descent - 5 single rope raps straight down the route.
Approach to Nevermind, then continue to the right past the crag a couple hundred yards. The route starts in the large, obvious left facing corner.