Type: Sport, 580 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Sam Boyce, Kyle Willis 2017
Page Views: 2,129 total · 209/month
Shared By: Sam Boyce on Jul 25, 2018
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

I believe this project started one desperate rainy day march 2017. Too wet to do ANYTHING, but the stoke was high. Kyle touted "i want to do something stupid". I had it in the back of my mind that this wall existed, but never had a reason to explore. We went out armed for bear, full double rack, aid kit and a hammer drill. We were going to siege our way up the wall in the rain. A couple hrs later and out of rivets the first pitch was done... Over the course of the summer we would go out and chip away at a pitch, limited by the battery life of the drill (hand drilling in this rock was crazy, way more effort than granite it seemed). Most of the rack was left on the ground after pitch 2. I daisy whipped on a #2 and had it pull, tomahawking backwards through the moss for 40 ft. With full aid kit and the drill in hand it was an entertaining fall. We eventually made it up the wall 5.9 A2+ R. (side note: if some of the bolting seems weird, many bolts were placed on aid lead through a blanket of gravel and moss so...) So then commenced the absurd task of cleaning this wall. Hundreds of hrs went into cleaning it to the state that its in. We had caution tape up for quite a while and gated off nevermind on days we were planning to release big stuff. Most of the climbing is surprisingly fun, some being legitimately wild. Be prepared for some post cleaning dirt and the potential for holds to pull. Overall the route cleaned up fairly well, but until this thing sees a lot of ascents rockfall may still be commonplace. Bring a hardhat!  

P1- 120ft 5.8/9 13 bolts. Up the left facing corner to the massive roof, traverse left past the roof then up the face to a sloping ledge with chains.
P2- 110ft 10b 14 bolts. boulder problem to the right of the belay takes you up the groove, slab up to a broken face, easy climbing to a big ledge with rap chains, step right stem off tree, steep moves up (crux) then left past some more broken rock. Belay at a stance, 2 bolts no chain.
P3- 100ft 10b 13 bolts (money pitch), traverse right from the belay to some yellow rock, mantle to a sloping ledge, then wild moves to initiate a traverse back left to a big ledge with a belay.
P4- 60ft 5.8/9 6 bolts. straight up the face to a ledge with a tree, 3 bolt anchor (1 damaged 1 wire hanger 1 good).
P5- 130ft 5.9+ 12 bolts. Up the easy face to a slab with an easy runout to a ledge (optional belay here to do 4,5,6 as 2 pitches) pull some steep moves off the ledge and traverse a massive dike right to a huge ledge with an anchor. (do not rap here, else you want to adventure through choss land!)
P6- 60ft 5.9 5 bolts, steep moves off the belay, up and left to the top.

Descent- 5 single rope raps straight down the route.

Location

Approach as for nevermind, continue to the right past the crag a couple hundred yards, the route starts in the large, obvious left facing corner.

Protection

15 quickdraws, of these youll want about 4 alpine draws. 60m rope. Helmets.

Photos

Flava Flav
Seattle, WA
 
Flava Flav   Seattle, WA
 
Conditions report: I climbed it for the second time the other day. The hard climbing is excellent, and the traversing nature of route is adventurous. It’s still dirty in spots, but in places where it doesn’t affect the climbing much if at all. Jul 25, 2018
Chris Blodgett
seattle
  5.10b
Chris Blodgett   seattle
  5.10b
Pitch 2 be sure to not use the rap anchors to belay from, you won't be able to do pitch 3 properly from there.
Pitch 3 has some interesting movements with harder clips.

  • bugs everywhere. especially on pitch 4.
  • lose rock
Jul 30, 2018
Cary Small
Seattle, WA
 
Cary Small   Seattle, WA
 
Fun climb. Nice that we can have a decent long(ish) multipitch so close to the city. Was a bit chossy but this will be great once it gets cleaner and more traffic.

I would rate the 3rd pitch harder than the second by a letter grade or so.

On the second part of the traverse i found the bolts quite high and sometimes the anchors were confusing.

Other than these things. Good climb. Some really fun moves.

Living the dream. Jul 30, 2018
CourtneyB
Seattle, WA
CourtneyB   Seattle, WA
Fun adventure climbing that will be even more fun in a couple of years once it's cleaner and loose rocks are pulled out. Have at least 4 alpine draws for the 3rd pitch or you'll be using all of your body weight to haul the rope up. Bring your helmet. Anchors can be interesting to set up if you're vertically challenged. Aug 22, 2018
lots of loose rock. (almost domed ned)
Anchors were high, but located on nice ledges
2 stars Oct 23, 2018
Jonathan Miller
Bremerton, WA
 
Jonathan Miller   Bremerton, WA
 
Really enjoyed the route, fun for the grade in the area! It is definitely still an adventure climb with some loose rocks but mostly clean.
Pitch 1: The crack was a bit wet so feet were sketchy
Pitch 2: First move from the chains was a boulder shelf, get a high foot. Crux is pulling a roof near the top to the right of the rappel chains. Anchor is further under on the left side of the tranverse. They blend into the rock but they are directly under the line of aid bolts.
Pitch 3: Best pitch of the route! Fun traverse, tricky shelf pull and then airy finish. Very enjoyable.
Pitch 4: Moderate terain and big ledges. Climbed past the 3 bolt anchor to the rappel chains.
Pitch 5/6: Linked these pitches and skipped some clips. Still alot of rope drag but it is doable.

You will see all the rap chains on your way up. Keep a mental note where they are cause it is easy to rappel past them since they are tucked under some shelves. Anchors can be high so quad anchors are reccommended to extend the anchor for usability. Needs more climbs but great climb for the area and well worth making it to the top! May 6, 2019
Flava Flav
Seattle, WA
 
Flava Flav   Seattle, WA
 
Condition Report: Led the first pitch today, it’s very fun! A bit dusty towards the top but it’s well protected. We also worked out the MUCH ANTICIPATED Directissima “Flight Of The Gnarwal”. I did not send, too much steep and not enough jug. If anyone was interested in putting some hangers on the arete up there it would be a much harder variation of the route.

The second pitch start appears to be dirty, but I always traversed in from the right and avoided that. Cranking straight up is much harder. The upper route is steep, thus does not get dirty like this bit.


After discussing with Sam about the comments of the “high anchors”, I figure I’ll let you in on why they are there. On all the belay ledges there used to be 3-5 ft. of dirt. I spent an entire day once digging out the beginning of the first pitch. May 6, 2019 · Temporary Report
michal
Everett WA
michal   Everett WA
Beginner's mistake. I've done it too. Just go back and replace the anchors lower. May 7, 2019