Sport, 580 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.9 from 10
FA: Sam Boyce, Kyle Willis 2017
> Central-W Casca…
> N Bend & Vicinity
> Exit 38
> Exit 38: Decept…
> Nevermind Wall
I believe this project started one desperate rainy day march 2017. Too wet to do ANYTHING, but the stoke was high. Kyle touted "i want to do something stupid". I had it in the back of my mind that this wall existed, but never had a reason to explore. We went out armed for bear, full double rack, aid kit and a hammer drill. We were going to siege our way up the wall in the rain. A couple hrs later and out of rivets the first pitch was done... Over the course of the summer we would go out and chip away at a pitch, limited by the battery life of the drill (hand drilling in this rock was crazy, way more effort than granite it seemed). Most of the rack was left on the ground after pitch 2. I daisy whipped on a #2 and had it pull, tomahawking backwards through the moss for 40 ft. With full aid kit and the drill in hand it was an entertaining fall. We eventually made it up the wall 5.9 A2+ R. (side note: if some of the bolting seems weird, many bolts were placed on aid lead through a blanket of gravel and moss so...) So then commenced the absurd task of cleaning this wall. Hundreds of hrs went into cleaning it to the state that its in. We had caution tape up for quite a while and gated off nevermind on days we were planning to release big stuff. Most of the climbing is surprisingly fun, some being legitimately wild. Be prepared for some post cleaning dirt and the potential for holds to pull. Overall the route cleaned up fairly well, but until this thing sees a lot of ascents rockfall may still be commonplace. Bring a hardhat!
P1- 120ft 5.8/9 13 bolts. Up the left facing corner to the massive roof, traverse left past the roof then up the face to a sloping ledge with chains.
P2- 110ft 10b 14 bolts. boulder problem to the right of the belay takes you up the groove, slab up to a broken face, easy climbing to a big ledge with rap chains, step right stem off tree, steep moves up (crux) then left past some more broken rock. Belay at a stance, 2 bolts no chain.
P3- 100ft 10b 13 bolts (money pitch), traverse right from the belay to some yellow rock, mantle to a sloping ledge, then wild moves to initiate a traverse back left to a big ledge with a belay.
P4- 60ft 5.8/9 6 bolts. straight up the face to a ledge with a tree, 3 bolt anchor (1 damaged 1 wire hanger 1 good).
P5- 130ft 5.9+ 12 bolts. Up the easy face to a slab with an easy runout to a ledge (optional belay here to do 4,5,6 as 2 pitches) pull some steep moves off the ledge and traverse a massive dike right to a huge ledge with an anchor. (do not rap here, else you want to adventure through choss land!)
P6- 60ft 5.9 5 bolts, steep moves off the belay, up and left to the top.
Descent- 5 single rope raps straight down the route.
Approach as for nevermind, continue to the right past the crag a couple hundred yards, the route starts in the large, obvious left facing corner.
15 quickdraws, of these youll want about 4 alpine draws. 60m rope. Helmets.
p2 ledge on the FA
venturing up p5 on the FA. notice the ABSURD core shot!
steep climbing on p5
Liam feels the exposure on the P3 traverse! Note the intermediate belay I am at, you cant see it until you’re face to face with it.
The general route
Short pitch on the upper wall, the flat pointy hold is actually nice and grippy.
Liam starts P1
Start of the route