Avg: 2.5 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, 340 ft (103 m), 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||982 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||David Brayden on Jul 3, 2018|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra|
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
P1. Start up jugs on the right side of the slender buttress. Stem, layback, and face climb past bolts and gear up the buttress to finish at an anchor on the left at a small ledge. Fun and technical climbing with multiple cruxes (.10c, 4 bolts, ~25m).
P2. Follow the small buttress up cracks and face holds to a neat crux stemming or laybacking past two bolts. Can be easily linked with pitch 1 (.10b, 3 bolts, ~20m).
P3. Climb a crack in the wall above the belay. Move right when possible, clip a bolt, and stem higher until it’s possible to make an engaging step right onto the main face. Cruxy slab moves past bolts (easily aided) lead to an anchor (.10c, 6 bolts, ~25m).
P4. A tough move at the first bolt leads to easier slab climbing. At an overlap, step left past a bolt and continue to an anchor on a beautiful ledge (.10a, 6 bolts, ~30m).
Rap the route with a single rope.