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Candyland
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 16
votes
Routes in Gonzales Creek Wall
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Candyland T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Do Not Collect $200 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Game of Life, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Go Directly to Jail T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hungry Hungry Hippos T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jenga for Dummies T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Nobody Wants Your Damn Sheep T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Roll the Dice T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sicilian Defense T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Snakes and Ladders T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Too Much Effort T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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You Sunk My Battleship T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 340 ft (103 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.66045, -123.17076 |
| FA: | David Brayden |
| Page Views: | 1,544 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | David Brayden on Jul 3, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Fun, well protected climbing leads to the top of the wall and a great view of Howe Sound.
P1. Start up jugs on the right side of the slender buttress. Stem, layback, and face climb past bolts and gear up the buttress to finish at an anchor on the left at a small ledge. Fun and technical climbing with multiple cruxes (.10c, 4 bolts, ~25m).
P2. Follow the small buttress up cracks and face holds to a neat crux stemming or laybacking past two bolts. Can be easily linked with pitch 1 (.10b, 3 bolts, ~20m).
P3. Climb a crack in the wall above the belay. Move right when possible, clip a bolt, and stem higher until it’s possible to make an engaging step right onto the main face. Cruxy slab moves past bolts (easily aided) lead to an anchor (.10c, 6 bolts, ~25m).
P4. A tough move at the first bolt leads to easier slab climbing. At an overlap, step left past a bolt and continue to an anchor on a beautiful ledge (.10a, 6 bolts, ~30m).
Rap the route with a single rope.
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