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Doobies At Dawn
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 21
votes
Early Access
Routes in The Blank Check Wall
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A Squirrel, a Mole, and a Chicken S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blank Check S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Bourbon By Nine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Closed Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Cosmo's Crack Garden S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Crack Seam S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Doobies At Dawn S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Is it Nihilism or Nihilism? (Guess it Doesn't Matter) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lodgepole S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Meatballs in Space S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pinche Moscas S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Pinkies Up S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Transplant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Weird Science S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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When The Bottle Gets Empty S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 39.40677, -106.65365 |
| FA: | Eamon Swihart / Michelle Vlasich |
| Page Views: | 1,173 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Eamon Swihart on Jul 1, 2018 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2026 Raptor Closure - Endless Wall & Magic Forest - lifted
Details
8/21/26: per Jessica Ilse: closures lifted.
6/12/26: J. Ilse: “Endless Wall” and “Magic Forest” are closed due to nesting peregrine falcons. See comment & 
.
8/7/25:thank you for your support of the closure for nesting peregrine falcons. NF no longer sees falcons. End 8/8/25. - J. Schuller, NFS.
6/18/25: USFS monitored LC for nesting peregrine falcons, & a pair established a nest. The active nest is in the “Endless Wall & Magic Forest areas. They request no climbing.
2023: the nesting peregrine falcons at Lime CC are in full swing & a temporary area closure surrounding the nest until 8/1/23 or rescinded earlier. Info is posted at site. Climbing is not affected at other areas in Lime CC as a result of this temporary closure, incl. @ Endless Wall in the Jellystone & the N end of canyon. Specific to the Endless Wall, the closure begins about 75' R of Fruit of the Linen extends about 2000' up the canyon to a point about 180' N of the overhead powerline.
In 2022: closure ended. Monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest-dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area in the attached Forest Order, 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible @ Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
As of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas - open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 yr reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nests during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each yr based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
Intent: to protect the area of the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. The area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 yr restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More info regarding the proposal, rationale, & how to provide your comments - contact the FS.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Thank you.
Phil Nyland, FS Wildlife Biologist, White River NF, Aspen-Sopris District fs.fed.us
6/12/26: J. Ilse: “Endless Wall” and “Magic Forest” are closed due to nesting peregrine falcons. See comment &
8/7/25:thank you for your support of the closure for nesting peregrine falcons. NF no longer sees falcons. End 8/8/25. - J. Schuller, NFS.
6/18/25: USFS monitored LC for nesting peregrine falcons, & a pair established a nest. The active nest is in the “Endless Wall & Magic Forest areas. They request no climbing.
2023: the nesting peregrine falcons at Lime CC are in full swing & a temporary area closure surrounding the nest until 8/1/23 or rescinded earlier. Info is posted at site. Climbing is not affected at other areas in Lime CC as a result of this temporary closure, incl. @ Endless Wall in the Jellystone & the N end of canyon. Specific to the Endless Wall, the closure begins about 75' R of Fruit of the Linen extends about 2000' up the canyon to a point about 180' N of the overhead powerline.
In 2022: closure ended. Monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest-dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area in the attached Forest Order, 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible @ Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
As of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas - open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 yr reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nests during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each yr based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
Intent: to protect the area of the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. The area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 yr restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More info regarding the proposal, rationale, & how to provide your comments - contact the FS.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Thank you.
Phil Nyland, FS Wildlife Biologist, White River NF, Aspen-Sopris District fs.fed.us
Description
Start directly under the two jugs, or traverse in from the right fold up the bulge. Start into the crack, and find your feet. Make your way to the clipping jugs, then gain the right sidepull. Push/stem your way up to a good crimp and plenty of jugs to the anchors.
Location
This is the first route where the wall pushes out and the large crack. It is the next route after “When The Bottle Gets Empty.”
1 Comment