Type: Sport
FA: Todd Bol, EVD
Page Views: 866 total · 7/month
Shared By: tbol on Aug 27, 2012
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: 2022 Raptor Closure - Magic Forest & Endless Wall @ Jellystone Park 6/9/22-8/1/22 - now ended Details


Get ready to fly like a meatball! Clip the first bolt, the courtesy bolt, and prepare for a battle to the anchor. The crux comes after making a hard clip at the fourth bolt. Master a sequence left of the fourth and fifth bolts to gain a marginal rest and hand traverse on positive holds. If you're not flying high like a pastafarian yet, muster all your marinara and continue up, staying a little farther right of the upper corner than might be desirable. A traverse back left from the corner and a few hard moves guard the anchor. There is a high possibility for logging a little air time on this one. It is best to lead it. Toproping it is a little problematic due to the overhanging and traversing nature of the route. We figured it was on the upper end of 5.12, a challenging send no doubt.


It is on Blank Check Wall, a few routes right of 'Transplant' and 2 routes left of 'A Squirrel, a Mole, and a Chicken.'


8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks and cord (it might be a good idea to take a wrench and tighten loose hangers if you notice them, it seems like they take some time to 'settle in' on the limestone, and it seems like every route at the crag has at least one spinner).