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Routes in The Prism
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Heart of Darkness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Facet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Monkeys In The Clouds T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pig with Lipstick T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Prism Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Right Facet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 11 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | 07/2013 Howard Schwartz, Peter Croft, Betsy Grant, Ney Grant |
| Page Views: | 2,149 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Chad Namolik on Jul 1, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
The SeKi Rock Climbing website nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/… has current closures as well as other climbing information for visitors.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
Read Peter Croft’s The Good, the Great and the Awesome, 2nd edition, page 84. There is a route description as well as a good photo with route drawn in.
First couple pitches are 5.6 to 5.8 cracks, corners and giant features. Safe and well protectable. Next couple pitches feature easy 5.5 to 5.7 slab. Some bolts were added in the summer of 2018 to make this safer. No more R/X rating. Thanks Ney!
Next up, the 5.10b crux comes with stemming and topping out on ‘moose antler jugs’, as Peter writes in his book. A 5.9/10a hand crack to crumbly rock is an option to the right.
Few more pitches of fun moderate climbing will get you up on top of and past the 1st false summit. Then ride the ridge (simul-climb?) for 3-4 more pitches of lots of 3rd/4th class, false summits, incredible exposure, and climbing with pro up to 5.7. Also two rappels. Take extra long tat to back up existing stuff. Be mindful of the huge loose block at the 2nd rap. Pretty spacious ledges can be found throughout. Lots of long 200’+ rope stretching pitches so take that 70!
First couple pitches are 5.6 to 5.8 cracks, corners and giant features. Safe and well protectable. Next couple pitches feature easy 5.5 to 5.7 slab. Some bolts were added in the summer of 2018 to make this safer. No more R/X rating. Thanks Ney!
Next up, the 5.10b crux comes with stemming and topping out on ‘moose antler jugs’, as Peter writes in his book. A 5.9/10a hand crack to crumbly rock is an option to the right.
Few more pitches of fun moderate climbing will get you up on top of and past the 1st false summit. Then ride the ridge (simul-climb?) for 3-4 more pitches of lots of 3rd/4th class, false summits, incredible exposure, and climbing with pro up to 5.7. Also two rappels. Take extra long tat to back up existing stuff. Be mindful of the huge loose block at the 2nd rap. Pretty spacious ledges can be found throughout. Lots of long 200’+ rope stretching pitches so take that 70!
Location
From Crescent Meadow trailhead, hike out the High Sierra Trail(11) then the Over the Hill trail(4) ~15 total miles towards Tamarack Lake. Up near Lone Pine Meadow and about a mile or two before the lake, look off trail left, an obvious granite slab/grassy ramp leads up to the left of the base of the Prism. Climb this then traverse right, trying to stay out of the thick manzanita all the way to the big roof feature. Route starts towards the right side exit of the big roof.
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