Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Prism

Heart of Darkness T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Facet T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Monkeys In The Clouds T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pig with Lipstick T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Prism Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Facet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 11 pitches, Grade III
FA: 07/2013 Howard Schwartz, Peter Croft, Betsy Grant, Ney Grant
Page Views: 147 total · 52/month
Shared By: Chad N on Jul 1, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

Read Peter Croft’s The Good, the Great and the Awesome, 2nd edition, page 84. There is a route description as well as a good photo with route drawn in.

First couple pitches are 5.6 to 5.8 cracks, corners and giant features. Safe and well protectable. Next couple pitches feature easy 5.5 to 5.7 slab.  Some bolts were added in the summer of 2018 to make this safer. No more R/X rating. Thanks Ney! 
Next up, the 5.10b crux comes with stemming and topping out on ‘moose antler jugs’, as Peter writes in his book.  A 5.9/10a hand crack to crumbly rock is an option to the right. 
Few more pitches of fun moderate climbing will get you up on top of and past the 1st false summit. Then ride the ridge (simul-climb?) for 3-4 more pitches of lots of 3rd/4th class, false summits, incredible exposure, and climbing with pro up to 5.7. Also two rappels. Take extra long tat to back up existing stuff. Be mindful of the huge loose block at the 2nd rap. Pretty spacious ledges can be found throughout. Lots of long 200’+ rope stretching pitches so take that 70!

Location

From Crescent Meadow trailhead, hike out the High Sierra Trail(11) then the Over the Hill trail(4) ~15 total miles towards Tamarack Lake. Up near Lone Pine Meadow and about a mile or two before the lake, look off trail left, an obvious granite slab/grassy ramp leads up to the left of the base of the Prism. Climb this then traverse right, trying to stay out of the thick manzanita all the way to the big roof feature. Route starts towards the right side exit of the big roof.

Protection

Standard alpine rack. 0.2”- 3”. Doubles in small/med sizes. Nuts. Slings. 70m rope
Ney Grant
Pollock Pines, CA
 
Ney Grant   Pollock Pines, CA
 
There are now two bolts on the P3 5.7 R/X pitch so it is no longer an "X". If you wander a bit you can also find other pro or features large enough to sling. Maybe. When we originally did this climb Peter ran it out with no pro at all, because, well , he's Peter Croft. But we all agreed that a bolt or two would be nice if we had the time. With dark clouds above we did not. I also added a bolt to the start of P2, a 5.8 face section without the big features. I remember this as being a fantastic climb with BIG crazy features. I remembered correctly. Aug 16, 2018

More About Prism Time

Printer-Friendly