Avg: 2.5 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Pete Van Slooten and Sam Huntoon|
|Page Views:||3,255 total · 90/month|
|Shared By:||bus driver on Jun 30, 2018|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Five mostly quality pitches in an amazing setting. The route is a nice 5th class alpine adventure through mostly 4th class terrain. The hardest parts are well protected.
All pitches were established on lead from the bottom up. Some were later edited for safety or quality.
Pitch 1 - Slabbin’ on the Edge 5.6
Doesn’t look like much but it is more fun than it looks and adds some unique alpine flavor to the route. stay left of the bolts and stay left of the tree. Body weight belay below the last bolt or anchor in with cams.
if you end up wanting to rap after the first pitch walk through corridor. There is an anchor behind the shrub.
*Scramble to the upper pitches*
Scramble straight ahead for about 50 meters to the base of the upper head wall. See photo for location.
Pitch 2- The Sport Pitch 5.8
Locate first bolt 30+ feet up on a rib of rock. Follow the bolts. They are spaced at first but get slower through the steeper sections. 30 meters
Pitch 3- The Trad Pitch 5.7
Clip a bolt above the anchor then climb cracks through the roof. Don’t stop at the bolt with a piton. Continue up and right to another bolt then traverse right to the actual anchor. Look for the Suicide Slab anchor in a notch on the ridge as you climb between the slab and the next gulley over.
Stop and belay at the bolt & piton if you are going for the route “Talk Me Off The Ledge” which climbs the prominent roof above the slab.
Pitch 4-The Gulley 5.4RScramble up and across the gulley past two bolts on the second half of the pitch to a nice belay perch in a corner behind a “bonsai tree”.
Pitch 5 - The Business Pitch 5.8+
Jam up the hand crack through the steep wall climbers left of the anchor. Surmount the slab then climb upper face to the anchor.
4 rappels with 1 x 60m rope + down scramble2 rappels with 2 x 60m rope + down scramble TIE KNOTS in the end of your ropeWalk off the back and back track to the packsContinue up the South Ridge to Mt Superior
Approximately 6-8 fixed pro or gear placements per 30 meter pitch. You may find more.
60 meter rope
10 draws / slings
Metolius 0 to BD#3
nuts optionalHand Jammies optional for pitch 3&5This is likely more than enough. Leave your rack suggestion in the comments.
Route gets morning sun and evening shade. See if the route is dry and what time it goes in the shade at the webcam link below. The notch in the ridge line is the top of suicide chute. Suicide slab climbs on the face to the left. https://www.onthesnow.com/utah/alta-ski-area/webcams.html?id=329
Edited for brevity.
Summer - park right below Mt Superior
October-April - No parking below Mt Superior. Park up canyon at the Hellgate Condos parking lot.