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Routes in Diablo Wall
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Al Tesoro S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bolts to Nowhere S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Guillotine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Kinnikinnick S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Oso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rainy Day Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shiny Yellow Crane S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Upriver Justice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| GPS: | 48.71251, -121.16078 |
| FA: | May 24, 2018 |
| Page Views: | 1,061 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | calvino on May 26, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure March 1st to approximately July 15th each year; climbing outside approved CMAs strictly prohibited
Details
Sport climbing outside the four established climbing areas (Diablo Crag, Newhalem East and West, and Town Crags) within North Cascades National Park Service Complex is prohibited. As outlined in the Ross Lake National Recreation Area General Management Plan, sport climbing is only allowed in designated climbing management areas and park staff will review any proposed new climbing management areas. Learn more at nps.gov/noca/learn/news/tem…
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Learn more at accessfund.org/news-and-eve… and check back for updates.
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Learn more at accessfund.org/news-and-eve… and check back for updates.
Description
This is an alternative start to "Guillotine" taking a more direct path to the top crux. Scramble 20' up the loose gully before stepping onto the route with an undercling and right into some steep juggy climbing. Clip a few bolts, using a series of underclings and side pulls to join Guillotine right before the crux. Tricky moves at the very end make for an exciting redpoint crux.
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