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Routes in Diablo Wall

Al Tesoro S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolts to Nowhere S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Guillotine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kinnikinnick S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Oso S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rainy Day Woman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shiny Yellow Crane S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brittany Goris
Page Views: 178 total, 15/month
Shared By: calvino on Nov 29, 2016 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Respect the small area that may still be signed off. Details

Description

This line was originally left incomplete by a traveling Russian climber. The boulder problem from the upper ledge has caught the attention on many passing climbers over the last 20 years. The project has recently been retro bolted and climbed, clocking in at 5.13a. "Al Tesoro" is spanish for "to the treasure"

Location

Left side of the wall. Begins on the left most bolted line to the ledge (you can move the belay). From the ledge ,up the steep crimpy boulder problem and on through spicy and steep climbing.

Protection

10 bolts to chain anchor

Photos

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10 bolts I think. Name actually means "to the treasure", not just "the treasure." Once you leave the last ledge there is a bolt that is not part of the route but is at the base of the first overhanging section and adds incredible rope drag if clipped. I'm not sure if I put it there or not... If so, I have no idea what I was thinking at the time-- cause it very obviously adds no protection, since you can reach the first real bolt from the same position and it will actually keep you safe. May 9, 2017