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Routes in Diablo Wall

Al Tesoro S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bolts to Nowhere S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Guillotine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kinnikinnick S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Oso S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rainy Day Woman S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shiny Yellow Crane S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 917 ft
GPS: 48.713, -121.161 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,014 total, 159/month
Shared By: calvino on Nov 29, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
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Description

The metamorphic Skagit Gneiss of Diablo Wall is a beautiful and unique rock formation. It is metamorphic rock that formed as the roots of a volcano.The outcrop reveals 108 million year-old sedimentary rock that transformed 65 million years ago by cooking at 700 degrees C and 8 kilo-bars of pressure 35-40 kilometers under the earth's surface.

This roadside crag is shaping up, and has potential for more routes. Secluded, well sheltered base area, with shade and protection from rain. There is some friable rock but the wall generally clean. Considerable road noise by passing diesel trucks and Harley riders.

This wall has seen a couple waves of development and has plenty of potential to continue growing. The first bolting activity was done by a traveling Russian climber, and was left incomplete nearly 20 years ago. The original rusted, quarter inch bolts have been replaced.

There are a number of other bolts leading to the top of the wall that are open/abandoned projects.
Respect the small area that may still be signed off. Details

Getting There

Follow Hwy 20 east of Newhalem to mile marker 126. The wall is immediately north of the highway (about 20 yards) where the road to Diablo and Lower Gorge campground veer off.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Diablo Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shiny Yellow Crane
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guillotine
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shiny Yellow Crane 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Guillotine 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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