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Diablo Wall Rock Climbing
Routes in Diablo Wall
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Al Tesoro S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bolts to Nowhere S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Guillotine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Kinnikinnick S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Oso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rainy Day Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shiny Yellow Crane S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Upriver Justice S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Elevation: | 917 ft | 280 m |
| GPS: |
48.71251, -121.16078 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 12,109 total · 124/month | |
| Shared By: | calvino on Nov 29, 2016 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure March 1st to approximately July 15th each year; climbing outside approved CMAs strictly prohibited
Details
Sport climbing outside the four established climbing areas (Diablo Crag, Newhalem East and West, and Town Crags) within North Cascades National Park Service Complex is prohibited. As outlined in the Ross Lake National Recreation Area General Management Plan, sport climbing is only allowed in designated climbing management areas and park staff will review any proposed new climbing management areas. Learn more at nps.gov/noca/learn/news/tem…
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Learn more at accessfund.org/news-and-eve… and check back for updates.
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Learn more at accessfund.org/news-and-eve… and check back for updates.
Description
The metamorphic Skagit Gneiss of Diablo Wall is a beautiful and unique rock formation. It is metamorphic rock that formed as the roots of a volcano.The outcrop reveals 108 million year-old sedimentary rock that transformed 65 million years ago by cooking at 700 degrees C and 8 kilo-bars of pressure 35-40 kilometers under the earth's surface.
This roadside crag is shaping up, and has potential for more routes. Secluded, well sheltered base area, with shade and protection from rain. There is some friable rock but the wall generally clean. Considerable road noise by passing diesel trucks and Harley riders.
This wall has seen a couple waves of development and has plenty of potential to continue growing. The first bolting activity was done by a traveling Russian climber, and was left incomplete nearly 20 years ago. The original rusted, quarter inch bolts have been replaced.
There are a number of other bolts leading to the top of the wall that are open/abandoned projects.
This roadside crag is shaping up, and has potential for more routes. Secluded, well sheltered base area, with shade and protection from rain. There is some friable rock but the wall generally clean. Considerable road noise by passing diesel trucks and Harley riders.
This wall has seen a couple waves of development and has plenty of potential to continue growing. The first bolting activity was done by a traveling Russian climber, and was left incomplete nearly 20 years ago. The original rusted, quarter inch bolts have been replaced.
There are a number of other bolts leading to the top of the wall that are open/abandoned projects.
Classic Climbing Routes at Diablo Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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