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> Desert Pony Buttress
Shared Oasis
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 10
votes
Routes in Desert Pony Buttress
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A Horse With No Shame S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Breakin Boulders S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Darth Veda S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Elk Tour S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Family Affair S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Francis' Frolic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Journey Home, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lunaception S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Mother F***ing Snakes S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Ponies in The Desert S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Retrovertigo T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sagittarius Serpentarius T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shared Oasis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Simon Says S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snakes on a Plane S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sssnaked S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Strider Biking S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trad Practice 1 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trad Practice 2 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unnamed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 37.2873, -82.30922 |
| FA: | Kylie Schmidt, Brad Mathisen, and Ben Page |
| Page Views: | 1,254 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Kylie Schmidt on May 15, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shawn Heath, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
A super fun route with pumpy, steep jugs and a crimpy crux. Ride the pump on hero jugs through the roof before a romp to the top, high over the gorge. Amazing position and views to finish!
Advice for clipping before and through the main roof: 1) Clip the unpainted bolt before the roof and use a long draw--very helpful to reduce drag. Do not clip the painted bolt before the unpainted bolt. 2) Do do not use the bolt in the roof - it will likely pull out if you fall on it.
Anchors may be lowered to minimize drag in near future. Be mindful of the boulder when lowering. There is a quicklink at the 3rd bolt to aid in cleaning.
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