Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 87 total · 12/month
Shared By: Hannah12 Miller on May 14, 2018
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Long #2 crack, definitely need 2 ropes to get down. No one move was that challenging, but just went on and on. 

Location

Long route to the left of Sundawg on the Second Buttress. 

Protection

At least 6 #2s, several #3s, probably some #1s?

Photos

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WillK  
Very long climb. Wouldn't be surprised if it's over 40 m in length.

Lowering:
There are a set of bolts (no links, just thick hangers) about 10 ft to left of the crack. You won't be able to lower a climber to these bolts from the ground with a 70m. If you got a single rope, you can top belay and then do double rap. Can't say if the same could be done with a single 60 m.

Gear:
Only need #1 thru #4 C4s, but at least a few of them. Definitely stock up on #2s and #3 for this one. Pretty sure I took about 6 each of #2 and #3 at the start. Can't really suggest how many to take, however, because I had to lower to back clean a few times. So if I did it again I would definitely take a few more of each to sew it up.


Spoilers:

There's a flake that pops out of the crack maybe about 2/3 height that feels real weak. The problem is that it splits the crack in half and thus makes pro sketchy in that area. Unfortunately, this also happened to be where the crux was for me. Sep 24, 2018