Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Josh Smith, Jason Halladay - April 28, 2018
Page Views: 681 total · 15/month
Shared By: Josh Smith on May 9, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The meat of this route is a 260ft dihedral on an immaculate slab, and it's well worth the effort to get to it.  The route description is a bit vague (no pitch-by-pitch) because we didn't take what we believe to be the best line on the FA, and who ever goes up there next will need to approach it with a spirit of adventure.

The proper start of the route is a ledge with an intimidating wide corner up against the wall. We climbed a very thin line to the left of the corner at about 10+.  When rapping, we observed that it would be easier to climb the wide corner, which is solid and has features on the right wall. The corner is about 20 feet of climbing to a huge ledge and looks to be 5.8 wide (maybe bring a 6).

From the huge ledge, follow the shallow dihedral on your left for about 260 feet of very high quality, well-protected 5.8 slab climbing to a nice tree. It's mostly 5.5-5.6 with a few moves that are a bit harder. See photo.

We kept going up the obvious, enormous dihedral on the steep wall above, but it would probably be better to rap from the tree. Be prepared to set your own anchors.

Location

Go up Bear Gully and look for the big slab at the base of the right wall. Head for that. We scrambled all the way up the right gully and then did some pretty loose additional scrambling to get to the base of the slabs proper. It would probably be a lot better to climb the low angle (looked to be 5.5ish) slabs on the right side of the gully to get to the base of the wall. See photos.

Protection

Double rack to #3. Set nuts. Long slings.

Photos

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