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Routes in Mother Mountain

Andouille Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Secret Slit, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Andrew H Stone and Kurt Bethke 5/28/16
Page Views: 240 total, 31/month
Shared By: Andrew H. Stone on Apr 22, 2017
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

P1: Start at the point where the arete rises from the forest floor. A few slabby moves lead to good gear and then a jug studded fin of rock leading into the sky. Eventually you will reach a small tree at the base of a stack of detached blocks. Belay here, 5.6. P2: As I wanted the line to stick the very edge of the arete I tackled the death blocks. A few small chunks came off and dropped toward my belayer, but the larger blocks stayed in place. A safer line can probably be found by traversing to the right. Above the death blocks I found fun climbing on unique features. Eventually you will reach a low angle area with a few small trees. Belay here, 5.6. P3: Climb low angle rock until you reach a prominent rock horn, 4th Class. One 60 meter rappel from this horn will get you down to low angle scree from where you can walk back to the base of the route.

Location

The start of the route is downhill and southeast of the pass at 35.7282, -105.4216. This pass can be gained by hiking up Bear Gully and bearing right, but the easiest approach is to gain the pass from the east by hiking up the Hermit Peak Trail and then leaving this trail around the 8400 ft contour line and traveling cross country to the west.

Protection

Mostly small nuts and a few cams. Mother Mountain is stingy when it comes to protection.

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