Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 35.73897, -105.42311
FA: Andrew H Stone and Kurt Bethke 5/28/16
Page Views: 1,102 total · 10/month
Shared By: Andrew H. Stone on Apr 22, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1 (5.6): Start at the point where the arete rises from the forest floor. A few slabby moves lead to good gear and then a jug studded fin of rock leading into the sky. Eventually you will reach a small tree at the base of a stack of detached blocks. Belay here. 

P2 (5.7): As I wanted the line to stick the very edge of the arete I tackled the death blocks. A few small chunks came off and dropped toward my belayer, but the larger blocks stayed in place. A safer line can probably be found by traversing to the right. Above the death blocks I found fun climbing on unique features. Eventually you will reach a low angle area with a few small trees. Belay here. 

P3 (4th class): Climb low angle rock until you reach a prominent rock horn.. One 60 meter rappel from this horn will get you down to low angle scree from where you can walk back to the base of the route.

Location Suggest change

The start of the route is downhill and southeast of the pass at 35.7282, -105.4216. This pass can be gained by hiking up Bear Gully and bearing right, but the easiest approach is to gain the pass from the east by hiking up the Hermit Peak Trail and then leaving this trail around the 8400 ft contour line and traveling cross country to the west.

Protection Suggest change

Mostly small nuts and a few cams. Mother Mountain is stingy when it comes to protection.

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