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Andromeda
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 582 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Sean Hible on Jan 13, 2018 |
Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
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Description
This climb has little info and what's recorded here is from a failed attempt. My partner and I bailed after the first pitch due to large amounts of rock fall while leading. Finishing the climb was possible, but not worth risking our lives over. The climb ascends a very obvious offwidth/chimney to a palm tree at the top of Estrellas South Wall. The climbing for the first pitch is actually super fun and unique for EPC. That is, if you can get over the few and far between gear placements. The existing bolted anchors are really old, really strange, and really rusty 1/4" ring bolts...and shouldn't be trusted. There's also tons of loose rock within the crack.
Pitch 1 (50m): Go straight up the offwidth placing all the wide gear you brought with. Few small gear placements exist. Reach the 2nd pitch anchor (modern bolts) of Tia 20' above a palm tree growing out of the left face.
Pitch 1-3: ??
Descent: Either bring up a drill and bolt modern anchors on your way up/down...or traverse the ridge-line into the Supernova garden and rap down Supernova.
If you're going to do this route, do it with every intention of establishing an FA. Time has taken over any bolts or fixed gear, and the crack is probably just as dirty/filled with loose rock as it was on the FA. You'll be on your own, and you'll be in the unknown.
Pitch 1 (50m): Go straight up the offwidth placing all the wide gear you brought with. Few small gear placements exist. Reach the 2nd pitch anchor (modern bolts) of Tia 20' above a palm tree growing out of the left face.
Pitch 1-3: ??
Descent: Either bring up a drill and bolt modern anchors on your way up/down...or traverse the ridge-line into the Supernova garden and rap down Supernova.
If you're going to do this route, do it with every intention of establishing an FA. Time has taken over any bolts or fixed gear, and the crack is probably just as dirty/filled with loose rock as it was on the FA. You'll be on your own, and you'll be in the unknown.
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