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Routes in Grotto

Don't Shoot, I'm Only the Belayer T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
If You Can Climb It, You Can Condemn It T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Just don’t think about it Morty T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Narrow Escape T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Safety Blade, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems From Controversy T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Step of Valor T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Shannon 2me, Jason Hermanson,Dale Curran
Page Views: 194 total · 15/month
Shared By: ShanJ2me on Sep 17, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

This is an amazing moderate trad route, gear is Bomber!
P1- this is the physical crux at the beginning and at the end of the pitch. Take the left vertical Crack below the tree. A good Boulder spot for the leader is advised until they get the first piece in. Head left at the tree up the sweet diagonaling fist-hand-finger crack. Finish on a slaby top out at anchors.
P2- Mental Crux. Head LEFT of anchors to a single bolt (hard to see), clip it &Take The Step of Valor! Stem the gap and chimney up, then right to original formation, good gear after the bolt. Face climb to top of formation , gear placement in various "steps " and one bolt before anchors. Only 5.6- after finishing the chimney
Sees sun until about 2:30 pm.

Location

This Jem is located on the West world formation outside of the grotto, about 300 feet south of the Clear Cut Tower.
Look for the obvious right to left diagonaling hand crack.

Protection

P1 70' - It will take anything you throw at it, seriously! Stoppers to a #5 Cammalot- actually need only to a #3, bolted anchor.
P2 60'-2 bolts stoppers cams up to #3 BD, Bolted Anchor.
Two raps with a 60m rope, or one single rap with double 60 's

Possible Rope Eater

Take care when rapping- I found a stuck and cut rope it looks someone had an epic.I do 2 rappels- stay towards the left-when tied into 1st set of chains pull rope from the left side. With this method I haven't had a snag yet. Sorry to those who lost a rope.

Photos

CraigKnyn
Custer, SD
CraigKnyn   Custer, SD
High quality rock w aesthetic well protected cruxes.
A good moderate for those wanting to hone their trad lead skills. Sep 17, 2017

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