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Routes in Grotto

Don't Shoot, I'm Only the Belayer T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
If You Can Climb It, You Can Condemn It T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Safety Blade, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stems From Controversy T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Step of Valor T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brent Kertzman & Barry Unke May 1993
Page Views: 123 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Apr 30, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

This route is the rightmost of the four routes on this wall. Start up a finger/thin hand crack from the ledge at base of route. Upon the termination of the crack follow the bolted line to the anchors. Prepare to dig deep into your quiver of techniques for this route. The story behind the name is as follows. Burt Lindquist was belaying Brent on top rope to mark bolt positions. Brent summited and was preparing to lower and drill bolts. A NPS ranger came driving down the now gated road about the time Brent was going to lower off with the drill in hand. The ranger stopped and checked out the scene then moved on. Burt was worried and asked Brent what to do if the ranger approached. Brent replied "tell him don't shoot, I'm only the belayer".

Protection

One Set of Stoppers, Cams to 2", 14 Quickdraws

Photos

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ShanJ2me
Rapid City, SD
  5.10d
ShanJ2me   Rapid City, SD
  5.10d
Definitely not your typical crystal pinchfest! Very thought provoking fun climbing! Use every rest-- you will need the gas for the surprise ending! Nice work Brent! Aug 22, 2016
Ryan Minton
  5.10d
Ryan Minton  
  5.10d
Great climb for sure. Thoughtful moves followed by good rests make this route a must do! I found the lower section of the climb to be the most strenuous, but the upper section had it's moments as well! Protection bolts are placed right where you need them, and a #1 Camalot and ~#8 BD Stopper can be used to protect the gear section. The route is definitely rated 10d for someone who knows the moves. The onsight rating might be 11a- getting it first try with no beta is a challenge! Go do it! Jun 30, 2004