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Routes in Wolfs Head

Brass Monkey T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct South Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Driese-Kehoe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fred Becky's Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Dragon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Red Cloud T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Face, Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Face-Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buffalo T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Brandon Gust, Paul Kimbrough
Page Views: 860 total · 63/month
Shared By: telepaulk on Sep 10, 2017
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Awesome, hard route on the South Face of Wolfs Head. Good protection and fixed anchors. The crux is a challenging undercling roof to flared hand jams, pinches, and finally jugs. We tried multiple tactics on the crux pitch to keep the rope out of a constricting crack and we finally settled on a directional protection bolt. We used a quickdraw with a DMM Revolver to minimize rope drag on this bolt. We established this as a rap route, but it is not trivial. If you choose this descent be sure to rap west(skiers right) of arette on 2nd, 3rd, and 4th raps from ridge or you will be stranded free hanging.


South Face of Wolfs Head. See photo and topo


1set Green C3-Gold Camalot, optional double red-gold, slings, quickdraws, one quickdraw with 4inch dogbone and DMM Revolver.


Eli .
Eli .   GMC3500
Glad to see this one go down. Oooh hoohh. Jan 15, 2018

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