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Routes in Wolfs Head

Brass Monkey T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct South Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Driese-Kehoe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fred Becky's Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Dragon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Red Cloud T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Face, Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Face-Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buffalo T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 350 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Greg Collins, Kent McBride
Page Views: 712 total, 40/month
Shared By: Gee Double on Jun 28, 2016
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Splitter Crack in South Face with no bottom.
Start Becky Route, 5.7 warm up pitch. Some fix at belay. 35+m
P2: climb up and left, then improbable face, 5.12d (or A1) past bolts, into bottom of crack, up widening crack to belay from bolts. 30m
P3: Up hand crack through small roof, belay from bolts 5.11a 33m
P4: Finger and hand crack then a traverse right, 5.11c, then up easier ground. 33m
direct finish is open project, a thin off-set left trending seam, 5.11+? after scrubbing?
Rap route with 70 m rope or continue East Ridge to summit.

Location

South Face, below white splitter crack. Start Becky Route go left past bolts in crack system.

Protection

2-3 sets fingers to hand size cams, 1 fist size. Quickdraw's, fixed belays. Good rap route.

Photos

dameeser
denver
 
dameeser   denver
 
We climbed the first 3 pitches of Canus into White Buffalo. That seemed like the way to do it - every pitch was mouthwatering! Who does not want to climb a mega corner into a short OW into 300+ft of fingers and hands?! Seriously, this route was great. If you cant climb the traverse pitch it's well worth it to pull on the bolts to access the crack above.

The direct finish can go free at what felt like 5.11 climbing. It looks intimidating, which is why I chose to take the piton traverse, but it protects with small cams and rps. When I threw my rope down it did not feel any harder then the piton traverse, which is kind of sketchy anyway. That piton will likely bend halfway over the first time someone falls on it. Don't be scared though - you will be fine.

Thanks to the FA teams for putting these two routes together. Aug 9, 2016