Avg: 3.6 from 16 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||George Esson & Jim Montgomery, 1988|
|Page Views:||6,879 total · 80/month|
|Shared By:||Dave Polan on Sep 20, 2012|
|Admins:||Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
Climb the right-facing corner using a combination of jams, laybacks, and underclings - often strenuous, never desperate. The route goes in 3-4 short pitches, with 3 belays on downward-right sloping ledges. Pitch 3 has some large loose red-colored flakes that get your attention but are easily, if gingerly bypassed. In general, the rock is gorgeous, the stance is phenomenal, and this route clearly deserves more traffic to brush away a little lichen and grit. Once onto the East Ridge proper (having bypassed the knife edge portion), follow the East Ridge route to the summit and descend as described for that route. If you've just climbed this route, I would highly recommend simul-climbing the rest of the East Ridge, although rappelling the Beckey Route is an option for descent.
- This description varies a bit from that in Bechtel's book and may represent a variation. He describes "a left-leaning, right facing flake/corner. This system is continuous and leads first hard left, then vertically toward the ridge" ... we climbed a vertical to just barely RIGHTward leaning right-facing corner ... excellent nonetheless!