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Routes in Wolfs Head

Brass Monkey T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Direct South Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Driese-Kehoe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fred Becky's Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Green Dragon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Red Cloud T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Face, Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Face-Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Buffalo T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: George Esson & Jim Montgomery, 1988
Page Views: 5,281 total · 78/month
Shared By: Dave Polan on Sep 20, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Approach as for Wolf's Head East Ridge. Look for a series of grassy ledges just to the LEFT of a dirty chimney system (not right, as the recent Bechtel guidebook states... one of many errors discovered in 4 short days climbing here). Scramble up the grassy ledges (I'd argue 4th class, not 3rd; some may wish a rope especially if grass is wet / slippery) to the broad, sloping ledge immediately below the knife edge of the East Ridge proper. From the top of the grassy ledges, head left and ascend a sloping ramp up and left to the base of a large right-facing corner (see Beta photo).

Climb the right-facing corner using a combination of jams, laybacks, and underclings - often strenuous, never desperate. The route goes in 3-4 short pitches, with 3 belays on downward-right sloping ledges. Pitch 3 has some large loose red-colored flakes that get your attention but are easily, if gingerly bypassed. In general, the rock is gorgeous, the stance is phenomenal, and this route clearly deserves more traffic to brush away a little lichen and grit. Once onto the East Ridge proper (having bypassed the knife edge portion), follow the East Ridge route to the summit and descend as described for that route. If you've just climbed this route, I would highly recommend simul-climbing the rest of the East Ridge, although rappelling the Beckey Route is an option for descent.

Location

  • This description varies a bit from that in Bechtel's book and may represent a variation. He describes "a left-leaning, right facing flake/corner. This system is continuous and leads first hard left, then vertically toward the ridge" ... we climbed a vertical to just barely RIGHTward leaning right-facing corner ... excellent nonetheless!

Protection

Standard Winds rack to 3", extra .75-2"
A single 60m rope is sufficient, and as noted for the East Ridge descent, adequate for all the rappels.

Photos

Flam-McKigney-Collins Aug 1980 2nd ascent..? Sep 19, 2014
Casey Engstrom
Burnaby, BC
 
Casey Engstrom   Burnaby, BC
 
Scramble up the grassy ledges approach, then 4th class up the obvious left trending right-facing corner, set up a belay where it gets steep. The first pitch starts right off with a super fun 5.9 hands corner. Nice belay ledge about halfway up. We did a third belay station right below the 5.10 thin crux corner (only a few moves of 10a on the whole route), could've easily gone to the ridge in 2 pitches w/ 60m. Do the full Wolf's Head ridge traverse for a full day, or rap down Beckey Route for a half day outing. Jul 25, 2016
Garrett Harmsen
Park City, UT
  5.9+
Garrett Harmsen   Park City, UT
  5.9+
sustained 5.8 dihedral with a few 5.9 moves and 1 easy 5.10 move.
finishes maybe 1 pitch after the "sidewalk" on the east ridge. Aug 28, 2016

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