Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: Adam Brown and Cadence Brown
Page Views: 73 total · 4/month
Shared By: Adam Brown on Aug 29, 2017
Admins: Lurker, Rick Shull, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Hard moves to a side-pull off the ground are the crux moves of the climb, which pulls a bulge higher on the climb on the way to the anchors.

Location

On the east end of the north face. Starts just below a small bush and just uphill of the pine tree that is along the face.

Protection

4 bolts. 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Ryder Dschida
McKinleyville, CA
  5.9
Ryder Dschida   McKinleyville, CA
  5.9
Followed the bolt line straight up on TR and it seemed harder than 5.9, or maybe I'm just a wuss. Apr 23, 2018
Adam Brown
  5.9
Adam Brown  
  5.9
Thanks Ryder! Those first few moves off the ground are prob harder than 5.9. What would you suggest? Also, what the road like going up there? Cadence and I were hoping to go up this weekend. Apr 24, 2018
Ryder Dschida
McKinleyville, CA
  5.9
Ryder Dschida   McKinleyville, CA
  5.9
I'm not sure what I would suggest. I rated it 5.9 for the historic value of preserving the original grade. Everything after the start isn't hard, just weird funky slab climbing. All my belayer heard as I worked my way up was "what is this?" You can avoid the hard start by starting left and traversing right on jugs, which seemed like 5.6/5.

The road is fine, but there's snow up on the hill. I'd recommend 4WD for now (you can make it with 2WD but I err on the side of caution). You can make it to 5N27 easily, but then a large snowbank blocks the road. We got our car stuck in that and barely made it out with rocks/sticks and pushing. Walking from the front area added about ten minutes to the approach. Wear waterproof shoes. The rock and crag are completely dry and warm. Apr 25, 2018