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Routes in Lower Blair II

A Thing of Beauty T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Body Pump T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enterprising Curiosity aka Bloody Scab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hobbit Logic T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Medium Cool T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: M. Jenkins & J. Clinton
Page Views: 103 total, 25/month
Shared By: R Sather on Aug 7, 2017
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a line that I have walked past several times, and it has always looked intriguing. Because it was north-facing and held shade, we finally decided to get on it, and although I didn't provide a clean ascent, I did acquire some useful beta.

Climb some nondescript climbing to get to a 5.9ish chimney. Continue up the chimney to a "Y" fork.

Taking the left "Y" will deposit you into a 5.9 flaring chimney crack and to a decent anchor at about 35-45 feet (the anchors can be seen from the ground).

Taking the right "Y" will put you into Body Pump territory. An awkward entrance into the right fork puts one into sustained #5s for several feet till you can finally get a secure knee jam or you have reached the section of fists up higher. I thought this climb was a great physical trainer for stacks, and I would like to get back on to see if I fair any better.

Alas, this sun caused mild heat exhaustion, and I decided to bail and finagle my way over to the left anchors and escape. Some might find Body Pump slightly contrived, because you're looking to the left for an easy way out, but if you're free climbing the line, it is logical to stay in the right crack, and it would be pretty tricky to step over left.

Location

On the North side of Blair 2, this is an obvious "Y" chimney feature.

Rappel to escape.

Protection

I'd take singles from #2 - #6, and double up on the #4s and #5s. I haven't been to the top, but you have some options. I think you can build an anchor belay your partner up, and there are some obvious anchors to the left and to the right on the formation that will allow you to rap down. If you take the left set of anchors at the top of the formation, you might be able to TR or at least scope out "The Wing".

Photos

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Although it isn't that appealing from the ground, I really enjoyed climbing this thing. A great climb to build comfort with stacking. A #5 Friend and a new #5 Camalot seemed ideal to protect the business of the climb. The difficulty drops off significantly when you can grab the left corner although I still wouldn't call it an easy finish. Finishing the whole climb (recommended) requires a gear anchor up top on pretty grainy rock. I used a #3 and a #5 with long slings for an anchor, some medium/large nuts might be useful as well. Difficulty felt in the ballpark of Jay's Solo. Sep 5, 2017