Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||M. Jenkins & J. Clinton|
|Page Views:||103 total, 25/month|
|Shared By:||R Sather on Aug 7, 2017|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki|
DescriptionThis is a line that I have walked past several times, and it has always looked intriguing. Because it was north-facing and held shade, we finally decided to get on it, and although I didn't provide a clean ascent, I did acquire some useful beta.
Climb some nondescript climbing to get to a 5.9ish chimney. Continue up the chimney to a "Y" fork.
Taking the left "Y" will deposit you into a 5.9 flaring chimney crack and to a decent anchor at about 35-45 feet (the anchors can be seen from the ground).
Taking the right "Y" will put you into Body Pump territory. An awkward entrance into the right fork puts one into sustained #5s for several feet till you can finally get a secure knee jam or you have reached the section of fists up higher. I thought this climb was a great physical trainer for stacks, and I would like to get back on to see if I fair any better.
Alas, this sun caused mild heat exhaustion, and I decided to bail and finagle my way over to the left anchors and escape. Some might find Body Pump slightly contrived, because you're looking to the left for an easy way out, but if you're free climbing the line, it is logical to stay in the right crack, and it would be pretty tricky to step over left.