Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli and Kip Spence
Page Views: 3,134 total · 21/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 7, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Climb fingers to an offwidth pod, then to good hands. Reach a ledge and climb 10 feet up a left-facing dihedral to the anchor. Enjoyable climb. Medium Cool starts on the same ledge as Goodbye White Opel and Solo for Swallows, be careful on the ledge, and the belayer should probably anchor in. Kip Spence is the father of famous trial laywer Gerry Spence.

Location

This is between Goodbye White Opel and Solo for Swallows. Take the trail from the blair parking lot around to the Northwest side of Blair II. Climb up the gully from the notch between Blair II and the Vulture (3/4th) to reach the ledge. Medium Cool is the middle climb on this ledge, going straight up with an obvious pod about 15 feet up.

Protection

1 set of stoppers, Cams from finger size (green Alien/#0.3 Camalot) to #3 Camalot. Doubles in hand size pieces. You could take a #6 for the pod, but it would make the climbing more difficult, better just to place below and above the pod. The top of the climb has poor quality rock, but easy climbing. Save one #3 Camalot or equivalent for this section. Belayer should build an anchor with hand-size pieces in the horizontal or small stoppers/cams in the crack.

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