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Routes in Lower Blair II

A Thing of Beauty T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Body Pump T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enterprising Curiosity aka Bloody Scab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hobbit Logic T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Medium Cool T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Hurley, Rearick, and Hollis, '75. FFA: Jim Brink and Skip Harper, '93
Page Views: 2,944 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jeff G. on Aug 16, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This great crack pitch is on the Northwest side of Blair II. It splits the wall and is impossible to miss. A thin face move gets you up into the crack. It starts with easy but nice hand jams up to a convenient rest. At this point, the crack goes into a beautiful green colored right facing dihedral. Getting off the rest ledge is difficult, as the jams are a little flaring. After a few moves, the jams get better but soon turn into strenous fists and a few moves of offwidth. After another nice rest ledge, you must navigate the final 25 feet of squeeze chimney, a full body workout on this one!

Location

This is a splitter crack that doesn't quite come all the way to the ground, starts thin, and goes wide. It is easy to find in the middle of the North West face of Blair II. Start with an easy traverse from right to left to get into the crack or start up the face directly in front of a large pine tree. I did the direct start up the face and slung a branch on the pine for pro which worked well. I also used the pine for a couple of chimney and stem moves to make it easier.

Protection

Yellow TCU through #4 Camalot. The bolts on top of the route Medium Cool can be used to belay, they are about 15 feet to the North. For the rappel, scramble to the Northeast to some cold shut anchors that are the finish to a new bolted slab route that went in just North of Dead Man's Glove. A single 60m rope is plenty to get down from these anchors.

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A-W
  5.10
A-W  
  5.10
One of the best pitches of pure 5.10 crack climbing out there. Monty's gear recommendation seems like it would be comfortable for just about anyone. The extra #2 or #3 would be nice to help build an anchor. Jun 26, 2017
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Phenomenal route, one of my new favorites! Doubles from yellow Alien to #4, a single #5 and #6 was a comfy rack for me though an extra #2 or #3 might be helpful. You can use the bolts on medium cool, but you need to rig up a directional to protect your partner in the upper squeeze. I wouldn't be upset if a bolted anchor was placed on top of this route. Aug 10, 2016
'A Thing of Beauty' was climbed free by Jim Brink and Skip Harper starting on the nearly blank 5.11b runout face in '93. Protection of the daunting, steep first pitch was accomplished by using a sling girth-hitched to a branch coming from the large tree. We initially split it into 3 pitches: 1.) the steep start, 2.) the crackline up to 3.) the offwidth exit. We were so pumped after finishing it, we downclimbed and, swapping leads, did it again. This was most likely the FFA of the climb, especially keeping to the natural line. If not, please speak up. The FA was first done on aid by Hurley, Rearick and Hollis in '75. Nov 12, 2014
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
 
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
 
I dislocated my shoulder on this one in the squeeze. Blew out the labrum and stretched out everything else. Surgery, recovery, I'll be back. Aug 9, 2010
Jason Funk
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jason Funk   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Beautiful looking crack from the ground... this thing is not exactly what it seems to be. Be prepared for deep and flaring jams and all out burliness. You could make this more exciting by only bringing one #4 camalot but it would be wise to at least pack a #5 and/or #6. Jul 6, 2009