Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Hyrum Colier & Gordon Larsen 7/10/2017
Page Views: 293 total · 17/month
Shared By: Gordon Larsen on Jul 11, 2017 with updates from karl vochatzer and 1 other
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Not quite as difficult as it’s neighbor, but just as good. Crux is at the small roof about half way up the route.

Location

Immediately right of Huecos from Hades

Protection

8 bolts to chain anchor (with Mussy Hooks)

Photos

Will Beuttell
Cedar City, UT
  5.11b/c
Will Beuttell   Cedar City, UT
  5.11b/c
Great job putting this line up. The bolt spacing is great minus the small runout section. A little more care could be made at removing the choss but overall, a great climb that should clean up over time. Wearing a helmet is a good idea for the belayer and climber.
Why not add a separate anchor? Jul 14, 2017
karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
  5.11c
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
  5.11c
The FAers have a good eye for the line that was missed for so many years. As Will wrote, well done on the bolt placements. I encourage you both as the route developers to stress test the line more. I second the motion that an independent set of anchors are warranted as you stand directly above the last bolt. Will and I will likely replace the thin gauge chain on Hades in part because it is actually only one point of failure due to the 2 quick links being threaded through by the chain and not actually attached into the chain links, which are too small to get them through. Three stars when the route is stress tested and cleaned up a bit more. Jul 15, 2017
Gordon Larsen
St. George, UT
  5.11b/c
Gordon Larsen   St. George, UT
  5.11b/c
All good suggestions. We did consider placing a separate anchor and may still do so. The chains at the anchor of Hades are a bit skimpy I must agree. Those are compliments of John Tully who began the development of the Lower Tier years ago. I gave him some grief about them already in a friendly way. So, there is still some work do do to make things better. (1) Replace the chains on the anchor of Hades, to something beefier (2) Establish an independent anchor for Cryptic Funk (3) Finish cleaning the bottom section of Funk. (4) Consider extending Hades further up the wall. Just takes some time, money and effort. Jul 20, 2017
karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
  5.11c
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
  5.11c
Appreciate the nice response from you Gordon and that you took our feedback constructively. Please feel free to reach out to either Will or me for any assistance on equipping hardware there. Aug 11, 2017
karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
  5.11c
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
  5.11c
I gave Cryptic Funk it's own anchors today and installed them just right of Huecos From Hades anchors. I put the massive ClimbTech anchor hooks up there so that climbers could conveniently and safely lower to clean, which should serve Hades well, too, being that they are fairly close to each other. May 5, 2018
Gordon Larsen
St. George, UT
  5.11b/c
Gordon Larsen   St. George, UT
  5.11b/c
Thanks so much Karl! Much needed. I haven't been up to Graveside yet this year but will look forward to trying the new anchor out. May 8, 2018
Goofy JungleMan
  5.11a
Goofy JungleMan  
  5.11a
Fun line with some interesting moves. 5.10+ route for those whom are 6' (180cm) or taller. 5.11a if you are shorter. The PG13 rating is unwarranted. This area has ample amount of bolts in the necessary locations to eliminate any previous PG 13 ratings. Oct 25, 2018