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Routes in Lower Tier

Buried Alive S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cryptic Funk S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dog Heaven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Evil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Evil Twin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hells Bells S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heucos from Hades S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
La Santa Muerta S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
La Santa Muerta Ext S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Undertaker S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Whited Sepulchre S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wicked S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Hyrum Colier & Gordon Larsen
Page Views: 156 total, 35/month
Shared By: Gordon Larsen on Jul 11, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A new line as of 7/10/2017. Shares the anchor with Hueco and is not quite as difficult. Crux is at the small roof about half way up the route.

Location

Immediately right of Huecos from Hades

Protection

8 bolts to shared chain anchor

Photos

karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
  5.11c
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
  5.11c
Appreciate the nice response from you Gordon and that you took our feedback constructively. Please feel free to reach out to either Will or me for any assistance on equipping hardware there. Aug 11, 2017
Gordon Larsen
St. George, Utah
 
Gordon Larsen   St. George, Utah
 
All good suggestions. We did consider placing a separate anchor and may still do so. The chains at the anchor of Hades are a bit skimpy I must agree. Those are compliments of John Tully who began the development of the Lower Tier years ago. I gave him some grief about them already in a friendly way. So, there is still some work do do to make things better. (1) Replace the chains on the anchor of Hades, to something beefier (2) Establish an independent anchor for Cryptic Funk (3) Finish cleaning the bottom section of Funk. (4) Consider extending Hades further up the wall. Just takes some time, money and effort. Jul 20, 2017
karl vochatzer
Cedar City, UT
  5.11c
karl vochatzer   Cedar City, UT
  5.11c
The FAers have a good eye for the line that was missed for so many years. As Will wrote, well done on the bolt placements. I encourage you both as the route developers to stress test the line more. I second the motion that an independent set of anchors are warranted as you stand directly above the last bolt. Will and I will likely replace the thin gauge chain on Hades in part because it is actually only one point of failure due to the 2 quick links being threaded through by the chain and not actually attached into the chain links, which are too small to get them through. Three stars when the route is stress tested and cleaned up a bit more. Jul 15, 2017
Will Beuttell
Cedar City, UT
  5.11c PG13
Will Beuttell   Cedar City, UT
  5.11c PG13
Great job putting this line up. The bolt spacing is great minus the small runout section. A little more care could be made at removing the choss but overall, a great climb that should clean up over time. Wearing a helmet is a good idea for the belayer and climber.
Why not add a separate anchor? Jul 14, 2017