All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > Indian Peaks > Hiamovi Tower

Ladybug Direct

Name: Ladybug Direct
Rating: 3.0

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British A0 R

Routes in Hiamovi Tower

L › R R › L A › Z

	Itch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Ladybug Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0 R
	Southeast Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type:	Trad, Aid, Alpine, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	40.15839, -105.696
FA:	Rachel Saggau & Aaron Henriquez
Page Views:	1,073 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Al Pino on Jul 5, 2017
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is a more direct variation to the start pitch 3 of Southeast Buttress.

P1. From the base of the buttress, climb a left-angling crack to a ledge. Traverse left to base of finger crack, and build an anchor, 5.10 (likely goes free at .10/10+).

P2. Climb left-angling finger crack approximately 15 feet up to place gear, then traverse 15 feet left on face holds. Then climb up good holds, and begin to climb up and right towards the main crack. Use thin finger pocket to reach for top of crack (the crux) with little to no gear (a 5.9 R/X rated move). Top out, and finish the regular route of Southeast Buttress.

Note: this is still a very uncleaned line. Light choss and loose rock are still very prevalent. A bolt or two on pitch 2 would make the climb a lot more fun and much safer.